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Old Polish Cookery for Beginners

27 bytes added, 16:44, 7 January 2020
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{{data|6 January 2020}}
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 4.jpg|thumb|What dish is this? You're gonna find out at the end of this post.]]
Cooking according to centuries-old recipes can be a real challenge even for experienced chefs. There are, however, dishes so simple that even beginner cooks could hardly fail to get them right – whether hundreds of years ago or today (let alone today, I should say, with modern kitchen tools at our disposal). So here's a handful of easy recipes I've picked for culinary novices from the oldest cookbook ever printed in Polish-language cookbook.
== A Collection of Dishes ==
| rok = 2004
| strony = 270
}}</ref>). Czerniecki was well aware that his was the first cookbook ever to be published in his native tongue. "As no one before me has yet wished to present to the world such useful knowledge in our Polish language," he wrote in his opening line, "I have dared, {{...}} despite my ineptitude, to offer my {{...}} collection of dishes to the Polish world."<ref>{{Cyt
| nazwisko = Czerniecki
| imię = Stanisław
| rok = 1682
| strony = 15
}} , own translation }}
That's better, isn't it? But I bet you'd still have a hard time actually cooking from this recipe. Where's the list of ingredients? Where are the quantities and proportions? What about caloric contents? Cooking time and temperatures? How many people does it serve? We've got used to taking certain elements of a cooking recipe for granted, but it turns out that in the 17th century they just hadn't been invented yet in the 17th century.
[[File:Nowy Wiśnicz z&nbsp;powietrza.jpg|thumb|left|The castle of Nowy Wiśnicz, which was once the family seat of the Princes Lubomirski; this is where Stanisław Czerniecki worked as a steward and chef, and where he wrote down his recipes in the first cookbook printed in Polish.]]
== Eggy Recipes ==
Don't worry: among more than 300 recipes contained in ''Compendium ferculorum'' you can find a few dishes so simple that they haven't changed all that much troughout throughout the ages and their recipes look surprisingly familiar, even if written in a rather old-fashioned style. These are mostly egg-based dishes, so they probably have been around about as long as people have been raising chickens. Let's start with the most trivial recipe, which is that for scrambled eggs:
{{Cytat
| '''Simple Scrambled Eggs'''<br>
Break Beat the eggs, pour onto butter in a clay pot and, having fried them, serve in the pot; you may also chop up finely some young green onions or parsley.
| oryg = '''Jajecznica prosta'''<br>
Rozbij jajec, wlej na masło w&nbsp;rynkę, a&nbsp;usmażywszy, daj z&nbsp;rynką na stół; możesz też cebulki młodej, zielonej albo pietruszki drobno ukrajać.
| źródło = ''Op. cit.'', p. 74 }}
Today we would rather use a teflon pan than a clay pot, but otherwise the recipe hasn't changed one bit. The dish is so pedestrian that it's weired weird the recipe has ever found its way into a cookbook written for master chefs working at magnate courts.
If you deem the scrambled eggs to easyfor easy for you and would like to try something a tad more challenging, then check out this recipe for thin pancakes, which are know in English as ''crêpes'':
{{Cytat
| '''Crêpe'''<br>
Break Beat eggs into together with milk and some flour, grease a clay pot or pan with butter, pour small amounts [of the mixture into the pot], fry into thin [pancakes] and serve doused drenched with [melted] butter.
| oryg = '''Naleśnik'''<br>
Rozbij jajec z&nbsp;mlekiem i&nbsp;trochą mąki, zynguj masłem rynkę albo kielemkę [czyli: posmaruj masłem rondel], wlewaj po trosze, a&nbsp;piecz cienko, a&nbsp;polawszy masłem, daj na stół.
{{Cytat
| '''Omelette'''<br>
Break Beat eggs into with milk, and ; if you want, you can add some flour too, but it's better without the flour; add small raisins and cinnamon, pour onto hot butter in a clay pot, fry and flip, and once fried, dust with sugar and serve.
| oryg = '''Grzybek'''<br>
Rozbij jajec z&nbsp;mlekiem, a&nbsp;jeżeli chcesz, możesz przydać mąki trochę, jednak lepiej bez mąki; przydaj rożenków [rodzynków] drobnych, cynamonu, wlej w&nbsp;rynkę na masło gorące, a&nbsp;smaż i&nbsp;przewróć; usmażywszy, pocukruj, a&nbsp;daj na stół.
== Winey Eggs ==
There's a breakfast dish popular with Polish college students that is known under the fancy name, "''jajecznica na winie''", which literally means "scrambled eggs on wine". This is a joke name, of course; which college student would waste good wine (or even not so good wine) by adding it to scrambled eggs? The name actually comes from the expression "''co się nawinie''", meaning "whatever is at hand", which is exactly what ingredients are added to the dish (other than the mandatory eggs , that is).
And yet, we can find in Czerniecki's cookbook, we can find, beside the "simple scrambled eggs", a recipe for "''jajecznica z winem''", or "scrambled eggs with wine". This time, it's no joke; it's an egg dish made with actual wine. Here it goes:
{{Cytat
The last instruction ("do not stir") indicates that it's not really scrambled eggs, but again a kind of sweet omelette (apparently, the word "''jajecznica''" had a broader meaning in Czerniecki's times than it has today).
I've decided to try out this recipe myself. I used three eggs, a teaspoon of sugar, a pinch each of salt and cinnamon or and ⅓ glass of wine. Hungarian wine was the most popular with 17th-century Poles, so I chose a sweet Tokay for this dish.
{{clear}}
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 2.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Egg-and-wine mixture pour onto a pan]]
I beat the eggs with the pinch of salt, then I added the sugar, cinnamon and wine, and pour poured the whole mixture onto a butter-greased pan. The original recipe doesn't call for rasinsraisins, but I figured they wouldn't make the dish any less authentic and added them as well.
{{clear}}
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 3.jpg|thumb|upright|Almost ready…]]
The egg batter was quite fluffy at first, but then collapsed, which I believe was caused by the addition of wine, as it had never happened to me before in regular omelettes. At least it was pretty easy to fold this omelette in half and even in quarter.
{{clear}}
I fried it a little more, flipped onto a plate (taking advantage of using a teflon pan rather than a clay pot) and dusted with powdered sugar (or "sugar flour", as Czerniecki would have called it).
I liked the distinctive winey aroma , which lightly subtly contrasted with the sweetness of the sugar. And, what's also important, I was quite filled with this simple breakfast.
{{clear}}
{{Przypisy}}