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Old Polish Cookery for Beginners

22 bytes added, 20:38, 24 March 2022
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Text replacement - "recipe" to "recipë"
{{data|8 January 2020}}
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 4.jpg|thumb|What dish is this? You're gonna find out at the end of this post.]]
Cooking according to centuries-old recipes recipës can be a real challenge even for experienced chefs. There are, however, dishes so simple that even beginner cooks could hardly fail to get them right – whether hundreds of years ago or today (let alone today, I should say, with modern kitchen tools at our disposal). So here's a handful of easy recipes recipës I've picked for culinary novices from the oldest cookbook ever printed in Polish.
== A Collection of Dishes ==
| miejsce = Kraków
| rok = 1682
}}, Dedication, own translation</ref> The author divided his work into three chapters of about one hundred recipes recipës each, for meat dishes, fish dishes and other dishes, respectively.
The recipesrecipës, though, are not easy to follow. First, they're in Polish, which may be an inconvenience, if you don't speak the language. But even if you did, you'd still have to wade through 17th-century Polish spelling, interpunction and typeface. Let's take the example below. You could probably make out the name of the dish, printed in roman type, but what about the actual reciperecipë, written in blackletter?
[[File:Compendium 15.jpg|600px|Potráwá żołta w&nbsp;dobrey iuſze, álbo po Krolewſku. Weźmiy Járząbká álbo Kuropátwę/ Ptáßki álbo Gołembie/ Kápłoná álbo Cielęćinę/ álbo co chceß/ wymocz/ ſpuść w&nbsp;gárniec/ zaſol/ odwarż/ odbierz/ nácedz znowu tym roſołem/ y pietrußki włoż/ á gdy dowiera/ wley Gąßczu/ Octu/ ſłodkośći/ Száfranu/ Pieprzu/ Cynámonu/ Rozenkow oboygá/ Limoniy/ przywarz á dáy ná miſę.]]
}}, own translation }}
That's better, isn't it? But I bet you'd still have a hard time actually cooking from this reciperecipë. Where's the list of ingredients? Where are the quantities and proportions? What about caloric contents? Cooking time and temperatures? How many people does it serve? We've got used to taking certain elements of a culinary recipe recipë for granted, but it turns out that in the 17th century they just hadn't been invented yet.
[[File:Nowy Wiśnicz z&nbsp;powietrza.jpg|thumb|left|The castle of Nowy Wiśnicz, which once belonged to House Lubomirski; this is where Stanisław Czerniecki worked as a steward and chef, and where he wrote down his recipes recipës in the first cookbook to be printed in Polish.]]Another thing we take for granted is that it's usually the same person who buys a cookbook, reads it and cooks from it. In the 17th century, though, it was quite normal for these three roles to be separated. The book would have been purchased by someone who could afford it, that is, a rich nobleman or a magnate (the Polish equivalent of an aristocrat). Or, rather, it would have been his wife, the lady of the house. She would have bought the book not for herself, however, but for the head chef (or "master cook") she'd had employed. It was the head chef's job to manage the entire kitchen staff, order the necessary ingredients from external suppliers and make decisions about what would be served on the lord's table (having agreed the menu and the costs with the lady). So the recipes recipës in the cookbook would have been read by the head chef – an experienced professional who didn't need all the proportions, temperatures and cooking times, because he already kept this knowledge in his head. But here comes another twist: he would have read the recipes recipës aloud – not to himself, but to the kitchen staff, who would carry the instructions out. We can tell this by the grammatical forms used in the book; it's always the singular second-person imperative, indicating a direct order that you could issue to your subordinate, but never to a magnate or to his wife who actually owned the book. Czerniecki, for example, would have never addressed his own employer, Princess Helena Tekla Lubomirska, by the familiar "''ty''" ("thou"), but consistently called her "Your Princely Grace, my Most Charitable Lady and Benefactress".
Let's go back to the reciperecipë. What do we have here? Stewed meat with sweet, sour and spicy seasoning; taste combinations that most Poles today would consider typical for Indian or Thai cuisines, but never for Old Polish cookery. And yet, this is exactly the kind of cooking that the Polish lords of yore would have priced the most and this is what we will find throughout Czerniecki's cookbook. So does it even make sense to recreate these old recipesrecipës, if the final effect may well turn out inedible to our modern palates?
== Eggy Recipes ==
Don't worry: among more than 300 recipes recipës contained in ''Compendium ferculorum'' you can find a few dishes so simple that they haven't changed all that much throughout the ages and their recipes recipës look surprisingly familiar, even if written in a rather old-fashioned style. These are mostly egg-based dishes, so they probably have been around about as long as people have been raising chickens. Let's start with the most trivial reciperecipë, which is that for scrambled eggs:
{{Cytat
| źródło = Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', p. 74 }}
Today we would rather use a teflon pan than a clay pot, but otherwise the recipe recipë hasn't changed one bit. The dish is so pedestrian that it's weird the recipe recipë ever found its way into a cookbook written for master chefs working at magnate courts.
If you deem the scrambled eggs to easy for you and would like to try something a tad more challenging, then check out this recipe recipë for thin pancakes, which are know in English as ''crêpes'':
{{Cytat
| źródło = Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', p. 75 }}
And here's one more egg-based reciperecipë; this one is for a kind of sweet omelette, which Czerniecki refers to by a now old-fashioned Polish term, "''grzybek''", or literally "a little mushroom":
{{Cytat
There's a breakfast dish popular with Polish college students that is known under the fancy name, "''jajecznica na winie''", which literally means "scrambled eggs on wine". This is a joke name, of course; which college student would waste good wine (or even not so good wine) by adding it to scrambled eggs? The name actually comes from the expression "''co się nawinie''", meaning "whatever is at hand", which is exactly what ingredients are added to the dish (other than the mandatory eggs, that is).
And yet, we can find in Czerniecki's cookbook, beside the "simple scrambled eggs", a recipe recipë for "''jajecznica z winem''", or "scrambled eggs with wine". This time, it's no joke; it's an egg dish made with actual wine. Here it goes:
{{Cytat
The last instruction ("do not stir") indicates that it's not really scrambled eggs after all, but again a kind of sweet omelette; apparently, the word "''jajecznica''" had a broader meaning in Czerniecki's times than it has today.
I decided to try this recipe recipë out myself. I used three eggs, a teaspoon of sugar, a pinch each of salt and cinnamon, and ⅓ glass of wine. Hungarian wine was the most popular with 17th-century Poles, so I chose a sweet Tokay for this dish.
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[[File:Jajecznica na winie 2.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Egg-and-wine mixture poured onto a pan]]
I beat the eggs with the pinch of salt, then I added the sugar, cinnamon and wine, and poured the whole mixture onto a butter-greased pan. The original recipe recipë doesn't call for raisins, but I figured they wouldn't make the dish any less authentic and added them as well (Czerniecki cautioned only that raisins "should solely be added to dishes meant to be sweet lest one err against one's culinary training"<ref>Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', p. 14, own translation</ref>).
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