Old Polish Cookery for Beginners: Difference between revisions

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{{data|6 January 2020}}
{{data|6 January 2020}}
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 4.jpg|thumb|What dish is this? You're gonna find out at the end of this post.]]
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 4.jpg|thumb|What dish is this? You're gonna find out at the end of this post.]]
Cooking according to centuries-old recipes can be a real challenge even for experienced chefs. There are, however, dishes so simple that even beginner cooks could hardly fail to get them right – whether hundreds of years ago or today (let alone today, I should say, with modern kitchen tools at our disposal). So here's a handful of easy recipes I've picked for culinary novices from the oldest printed Polish-language cookbook.
Cooking according to centuries-old recipes can be a real challenge even for experienced chefs. There are, however, dishes so simple that even beginner cooks could hardly fail to get them right – whether hundreds of years ago or today (let alone today, I should say, with modern kitchen tools at our disposal). So here's a handful of easy recipes I've picked for culinary novices from the oldest cookbook ever printed in Polish.


== A Collection of Dishes ==
== A Collection of Dishes ==
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  | rok      = 2004
  | rok      = 2004
  | strony  = 270
  | strony  = 270
  }}</ref>). Czerniecki was well aware that his was the first cookbook ever published in his native tongue. "As no one before me has yet wished to present to the world such useful knowledge in our Polish language," he wrote in his opening line, "I have dared, {{...}} despite my ineptitude, to offer my {{...}} collection of dishes to the Polish world."<ref>{{Cyt  
  }}</ref>). Czerniecki was well aware that his was the first cookbook to be published in his native tongue. "As no one before me has yet wished to present to the world such useful knowledge in our Polish language," he wrote in his opening line, "I have dared, {{...}} despite my ineptitude, to offer my {{...}} collection of dishes to the Polish world."<ref>{{Cyt  
  | nazwisko = Czerniecki
  | nazwisko = Czerniecki
  | imię    = Stanisław
  | imię    = Stanisław
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  | rok      = 1682
  | rok      = 1682
  | strony  = 15
  | strony  = 15
  }} }}
  }}, own translation }}


That's better, isn't it? But I bet you'd still have a hard time actually cooking from this recipe. Where's the list of ingredients? Where are the quantities and proportions? What about caloric contents? Cooking time and temperatures? How many people does it serve? We've got used to taking certain elements of a cooking recipe for granted, but it turns out they just hadn't been invented yet in the 17th century.  
That's better, isn't it? But I bet you'd still have a hard time actually cooking from this recipe. Where's the list of ingredients? Where are the quantities and proportions? What about caloric contents? Cooking time and temperatures? How many people does it serve? We've got used to taking certain elements of a cooking recipe for granted, but it turns out that in the 17th century they just hadn't been invented yet.  


[[File:Nowy Wiśnicz z&nbsp;powietrza.jpg|thumb|left|The castle of Nowy Wiśnicz, which was once the family seat of the Princes Lubomirski; this is where Stanisław Czerniecki worked as a steward and chef, and where he wrote down his recipes in the first cookbook printed in Polish.]]
[[File:Nowy Wiśnicz z&nbsp;powietrza.jpg|thumb|left|The castle of Nowy Wiśnicz, which was once the family seat of the Princes Lubomirski; this is where Stanisław Czerniecki worked as a steward and chef, and where he wrote down his recipes in the first cookbook printed in Polish.]]
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== Eggy Recipes ==
== Eggy Recipes ==
Don't worry: among more than 300 recipes contained in ''Compendium ferculorum'' you can find a few dishes so simple that they haven't changed all that much troughout the ages and their recipes look surprisingly familiar, even if written in a rather old-fashioned style. These are mostly egg-based dishes, so they probably have been around about as long as people have been raising chickens. Let's start with the most trivial recipe, which is that for scrambled eggs:
Don't worry: among more than 300 recipes contained in ''Compendium ferculorum'' you can find a few dishes so simple that they haven't changed all that much throughout the ages and their recipes look surprisingly familiar, even if written in a rather old-fashioned style. These are mostly egg-based dishes, so they probably have been around about as long as people have been raising chickens. Let's start with the most trivial recipe, which is that for scrambled eggs:


{{Cytat
{{Cytat
| '''Simple Scrambled Eggs'''<br>
| '''Simple Scrambled Eggs'''<br>
Break the eggs, pour onto butter in a clay pot and, having fried them, serve in the pot; you may also chop up finely some young green onions or parsley.
Beat the eggs, pour onto butter in a clay pot and, having fried them, serve in the pot; you may also chop up finely some young green onions or parsley.
| oryg =  '''Jajecznica prosta'''<br>
| oryg =  '''Jajecznica prosta'''<br>
Rozbij jajec, wlej na masło w&nbsp;rynkę, a&nbsp;usmażywszy, daj z&nbsp;rynką na stół; możesz też cebulki młodej, zielonej albo pietruszki drobno ukrajać.
Rozbij jajec, wlej na masło w&nbsp;rynkę, a&nbsp;usmażywszy, daj z&nbsp;rynką na stół; możesz też cebulki młodej, zielonej albo pietruszki drobno ukrajać.
| źródło = ''Op. cit.'', p. 74 }}
| źródło = ''Op. cit.'', p. 74 }}


Today we would rather use a teflon pan than a clay pot, but otherwise the recipe hasn't changed one bit. The dish is so pedestrian that it's weired the recipe has found its way into a cookbook written for master chefs working at magnate courts.  
Today we would rather use a teflon pan than a clay pot, but otherwise the recipe hasn't changed one bit. The dish is so pedestrian that it's weird the recipe ever found its way into a cookbook written for master chefs working at magnate courts.  


If you deem the scrambled eggs to easyfor you and would like to try something a tad more challenging, then check out this recipe for thin pancakes, which are know in English as ''crêpes'':
If you deem the scrambled eggs to easy for you and would like to try something a tad more challenging, then check out this recipe for thin pancakes, which are know in English as ''crêpes'':


{{Cytat
{{Cytat
| '''Crêpe'''<br>
| '''Crêpe'''<br>
Break eggs into milk and some flour, grease a clay pot or pan with butter, pour small amounts [of the mixture into the pot], fry into thin [pancakes] and serve doused with [melted] butter.
Beat eggs together with milk and some flour, grease a clay pot or pan with butter, pour small amounts [of the mixture into the pot], fry into thin [pancakes] and serve drenched with [melted] butter.
| oryg = '''Naleśnik'''<br>
| oryg = '''Naleśnik'''<br>
Rozbij jajec z&nbsp;mlekiem i&nbsp;trochą mąki, zynguj masłem rynkę albo kielemkę [czyli: posmaruj masłem rondel], wlewaj po trosze, a&nbsp;piecz cienko, a&nbsp;polawszy masłem, daj na stół.
Rozbij jajec z&nbsp;mlekiem i&nbsp;trochą mąki, zynguj masłem rynkę albo kielemkę [czyli: posmaruj masłem rondel], wlewaj po trosze, a&nbsp;piecz cienko, a&nbsp;polawszy masłem, daj na stół.
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{{Cytat
{{Cytat
| '''Omelette'''<br>
| '''Omelette'''<br>
Break eggs into milk, and if you want, you can add some flour too, but it's better without the flour; add small raisins and cinnamon, pour onto hot butter in a clay pot, fry and flip, and once fried, dust with sugar and serve.  
Beat eggs with milk; if you want, you can add some flour too, but it's better without the flour; add small raisins and cinnamon, pour onto hot butter in a clay pot, fry and flip, and once fried, dust with sugar and serve.  
| oryg = '''Grzybek'''<br>
| oryg = '''Grzybek'''<br>
Rozbij jajec z&nbsp;mlekiem, a&nbsp;jeżeli chcesz, możesz przydać mąki trochę, jednak lepiej bez mąki; przydaj rożenków [rodzynków] drobnych, cynamonu, wlej w&nbsp;rynkę na masło gorące, a&nbsp;smaż i&nbsp;przewróć; usmażywszy, pocukruj, a&nbsp;daj na stół.
Rozbij jajec z&nbsp;mlekiem, a&nbsp;jeżeli chcesz, możesz przydać mąki trochę, jednak lepiej bez mąki; przydaj rożenków [rodzynków] drobnych, cynamonu, wlej w&nbsp;rynkę na masło gorące, a&nbsp;smaż i&nbsp;przewróć; usmażywszy, pocukruj, a&nbsp;daj na stół.
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== Winey Eggs ==
== Winey Eggs ==
There's a breakfast dish popular with Polish college students that is known under the fancy name, "''jajecznica na winie''", which literally means "scrambled eggs on wine". This is a joke name, of course; which college student would waste good wine (or even not so good wine) by adding it to scrambled eggs? The name actually comes from the expression "''co się nawinie''", meaning "whatever is at hand", which is exactly what ingredients are added to the dish (other than the mandatory eggs that is).
There's a breakfast dish popular with Polish college students that is known under the fancy name, "''jajecznica na winie''", which literally means "scrambled eggs on wine". This is a joke name, of course; which college student would waste good wine (or even not so good wine) by adding it to scrambled eggs? The name actually comes from the expression "''co się nawinie''", meaning "whatever is at hand", which is exactly what ingredients are added to the dish (other than the mandatory eggs, that is).


And yet, in Czerniecki's cookbook, we can find, beside the "simple scrambled eggs", a recipe for "''jajecznica z winem''", or "scrambled eggs with wine". This time, it's no joke; it's an egg dish made with actual wine. Here it goes:
And yet, we can find in Czerniecki's cookbook, beside the "simple scrambled eggs", a recipe for "''jajecznica z winem''", or "scrambled eggs with wine". This time, it's no joke; it's an egg dish made with actual wine. Here it goes:


{{Cytat
{{Cytat
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The last instruction ("do not stir") indicates that it's not really scrambled eggs, but again a kind of sweet omelette (apparently, the word "''jajecznica''" had a broader meaning in Czerniecki's times than it has today).  
The last instruction ("do not stir") indicates that it's not really scrambled eggs, but again a kind of sweet omelette (apparently, the word "''jajecznica''" had a broader meaning in Czerniecki's times than it has today).  


I've decided to try out this recipe myself. I used three eggs, a teaspoon of sugar, a pinch each of salt and cinnamon or ⅓ glass of wine. Hungarian wine was the most popular with 17th-century Poles, so I chose a sweet Tokay for this dish.
I've decided to try out this recipe myself. I used three eggs, a teaspoon of sugar, a pinch each of salt and cinnamon and ⅓ glass of wine. Hungarian wine was the most popular with 17th-century Poles, so I chose a sweet Tokay for this dish.
{{clear}}
{{clear}}


[[File:Jajecznica na winie 2.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Egg-and-wine mixture pour onto a pan]]
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 2.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Egg-and-wine mixture pour onto a pan]]
I beat the eggs with the pinch of salt, then I added the sugar, cinnamon and wine, and pour the whole mixture onto a butter-greased pan. The original recipe doesn't call for rasins, but I figured they wouldn't make the dish any less authentic and added them as well.
I beat the eggs with the pinch of salt, then I added the sugar, cinnamon and wine, and poured the whole mixture onto a butter-greased pan. The original recipe doesn't call for raisins, but I figured they wouldn't make the dish any less authentic and added them as well.
{{clear}}
{{clear}}


[[File:Jajecznica na winie 3.jpg|thumb|upright|Almost ready…]]
[[File:Jajecznica na winie 3.jpg|thumb|upright|Almost ready…]]
The egg batter was quite fluffy at first, but then collapsed, which I believe was caused by the addition of wine, as it never happened to me before in regular omelettes. At least it was pretty easy to fold this omelette in half and even in quarter.  
The egg batter was quite fluffy at first, but then collapsed, which I believe was caused by the addition of wine, as it had never happened to me in regular omelettes. At least it was easy to fold this omelette in half and even in quarter.  
{{clear}}
{{clear}}


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I fried it a little more, flipped onto a plate (taking advantage of using a teflon pan rather than a clay pot) and dusted with powdered sugar (or "sugar flour", as Czerniecki would have called it).
I fried it a little more, flipped onto a plate (taking advantage of using a teflon pan rather than a clay pot) and dusted with powdered sugar (or "sugar flour", as Czerniecki would have called it).


I liked the distinctive winey aroma which lightly contrasted the sweetness of the sugar. And, what's also important, I was quite filled with this simple breakfast.
I liked the distinctive winey aroma, which subtly contrasted with the sweetness of the sugar. And, what's also important, I was quite filled with this simple breakfast.
{{clear}}
{{clear}}
{{Przypisy}}
{{Przypisy}}