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Epic Cooking: The Last Old Polish Feast

28 bytes added, 20:33, 24 March 2022
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Text replacement - "recipe" to "recipë"
You don't know any of these specialities? Don't worry, Mickiewicz was actually assuming that the readers in his own time wouldn't know them either; heck, he doesn't seem to have known their exact meanings himself. The excerpt above is just a jumble of random words that don't really add up to any meaningful menu. We're going to decipher them in a moment, but first let's see where the poet took them from.
The main body of ''Compendium Ferculorum'' (''A Collection of Dishes'') by Stanisław Czerniecki (pronounced: {{pron|stah|nee|swahf}} {{pron|chehR|nyets|kee}}), the cookbook that Mickiewicz loved to read while pining for Polish grub, follows a well-thought-out structure. It is divided into three chapters, each containing one hundred recipes recipës (more or less; the author did cheat with the numbering a little), respectively, for meat dishes, fish dishes, and dairy and other dishes. At the end of each chapter, Czerniecki added ten bonus recipesrecipës, as well as one "master chef's secret".
These three "secrets" were recipes recipës that required the highest level of culinary expertise, attainable only by the most skilled of chefs. Czerniecki divulges them as a sort of present for his readers. The first of these secrets is a recipe recipë for a capon in a bottle. The trick was to carefully skin the capon (a well-fattened castrated rooster), put the skin inside a bottle, fill it with a mixture of milk and eggs, and sew it up, then plug the bottle and plunge into boiling water. As the mixture expanded in heat, it made the skin swell and stiffen, producing an illusion of a whole capon fit inside a bottle. The bird's flesh could have been cooked and served separately, but it wasn't about the meat. It was all about the deception, the surprise and making sure that the guests would "not be without great astonishment".<ref>S. Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', s.&nbsp;44</ref> Mickiewicz made no use of this particular idea in his poem, but we will come back to the two other secrets later on.
When searching for ideas for his description of the big festive meal, Mickiewicz took something from each of the three chapters, but it was in the third where he found the weirdest-sounding ones. Czerniecki introduces the chapter with the following words:
}}, own translation }}
So by now we know where the second line of the aforecited excerpt is coming from. What about the next two? It seems that the idea for these "tragacanths, brignoles and pinoli" came not from any specific recipesrecipës, but from the "General Memorandum for the Preparation of a Banquet" that Czerniecki included at the beginning of his book. It was a checklist of things and people that you should have at your disposal before you start preparing a big lordly feast. It opens with a list of various kinds of meat, followed by sundry dairy products, cereals, fruits, vegetables, spices, preserves, different kinds of fish and sugar, as well as kitchen utensils and jobs (including, for example, floor-sweepers equipped with brooms, shovels and wheelbarrows, because, you know, if there's going to be plenty of food, then there's also going to be plenty of leavings). As for the spices, the list covered, among others, the following:
{{ Cytat
'''"Cybets" (Polish: ''cybety'')'''
: This word appears in ''Compendium'' only once, that is, in the "Memorandum", but not in any of the recipesrecipës, so it's hard to tell what Czerniecki meant by it. It could possibly refer to civet, a kind of fragrance fixative obtained from the glands found near the anus of an African weasel-like animal; or to Muscat-of-Alexandria raisins, known in Italian as ''zibibbo''; or to cubeb pepper.
'''Musk (Polish: ''piżmo'')'''
And began serving: [borscht] soup, called “royal”, to start,
Or the Old-Polish clear broth, prepared with great art,
Into which, by a secret old reciperecipë, threw
The Tribune a gold coin and of pearls not a few
(Such a broth the blood purges, improving one’s health).</poem>
| rok = 1994
| strony = 208–209
}}, own translation</ref> The problem is that if you do try and decipher them (and this is exactly what we're about to do), then this patriotic vision of two soups in Poland's national colours will fall apart like a house of cards. Let's begin with the "royal borscht" and see if it was really red. As it happens, it's the first recipe recipë in the third chapter of ''Compendium Ferculorum''.
[[File:Barszcz królewski.jpg|thumb|A very mushroomy (hence the brown colour) sour-rye soup with herrings prepared by Gieno Mientkiewicz with Arek Andrzejewski's sourdough starter (Herring-Eaters' Night, Szczecin, February 2020). You could call it a simplified version of the royal borscht.]]
It will be good, for sure, but hardly red. It's not the familiar red beetroot borscht, but rather something modern Poles would call either "''barszcz biały''" ("white borscht") or "''żurek''" ("sour soup"), made from fermented flour-and-water mixture (or thinned sourdough, if you will). It used to exist in two versions: the festive one, cooked on smoked-meat stock and served on sausage, bacon and eggs, is still very much around. The Lenten version, with salted herring, once very common, is now somewhat forgotten. What Czerniecki calls "royal borscht" is the Lenten variant, but in a royal guise, so apart from the cheap herring, there are also more upscale fish species, such as pike, salmon and sturgeon. Mushrooms are there too, probably even more than two ("two mushrooms into borscht" is a Polish idiom expressing excess), as well as the exotic cumin.
And what about the other soup? The mention of a gold coin, pearls and "a secret old reciperecipë" leaves no doubt that it's Czerniecki's third master chef's secret. But if you read the recipe recipë carefully, you will see that it's no so much a banquet dish, but another concoction for the ill.
{{ Cytat
[[File:Monety i&nbsp;perły.jpg|thumb|upright=.9|left|<poem>"<i>The Old-Polish clear broth, prepared with great art,
Into which, by a secret old reciperecipë, threw
The Tribune a gold coin and of pearls not a few</i>"<ref>A. Mickiewicz, ''op. cit.'', Book XII, verses 139–141</ref>
{{small|Detail of a painting by Jan Brueghel the Elder (1618)}}</poem>]]
You can see that this was a cure for the well-to-do only. All we're getting out of an entire stag, an ox, a quarter of a ram, four partridges and one capon is one and a half tablespoons of meat juice that we're supposed to let the patient quaff to make him sweat. Sounds rather like some kind of homeopathic scam, doesn't it? It's even more suspicious, if you consider what must have eventually happened with the ducat and the pearls that the chef would have said he'd needed for this elixir. In any case, it doesn't seem these ingredients had any influence on the preparation's medicinal properties, flavour or even colour. If you had thought that, if the borscht hadn't turned out to be the red soup, then perhaps it was this red-ducat broth, then think again. The Polish red ducat wasn't actually red in colour, it was golden; besides, gold doesn't dissolve in water (unless it's royal water, or ''aqua regia'', but that wouldn't be really fit for consumption). It's more likely that, like any other good broth, this one, even if cooked without the gold coin, would have been golden in colour – that is, neither white nor red.
For the purpose of our reconstruction, though, I suggest we take another of Czerniecki's broth recipesrecipës. A good dinner broth. Just like the one that opens the first chapter of the ''Compendium''.
{{clear}}
{{ Cytat
}}
Now, this is the kind of broth that you can still see on many a Polish table every Sunday! This recipe recipë seems quite modern in that, unlike many other Old Polish dishes, it's quite moderate in terms of exotic spices (only mace and pepper!), while making use of familiar herbs, like parsley, dill and rosemary. The one thing that does seem to be missing are the now-mandatory noodles. But noodles aren't the only possible soup garnish and as we already know that there were meatballs on the menu, then why not serve them together with the broth? So now let's see a recipe recipë for the ''figatelle''.
[[File:Rosół z&nbsp;figatellami.jpg|thumb|upright=.9|Lime-flavoured broth with ''figatelle'' (meatballs with raisins) made by my niece during a workshop at the Wilanów Palace Museum in Warsaw]]
| źródło = A. Mickiewicz, ''op. cit.'', Book XII, verses 152–154}}
Obviously, that's the second "secret" from the ''Compendium''. This one, for a "whole, uncut fish, cooked in three ways", except that in Czerniecki's actual recipe recipë it was the middle that was boiled, the head was fried and the tail, roasted.<ref>S. Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', [https://polona.pl/item/compendium-fercvlorvm-albo-zebranie-potraw,MzQ5MDIzMw/78 s.&nbsp;67]</ref> Not just any fish will do here. It must be both appropriately dignified and long, which means a mature pike is the best choice. The trick is rather simple: all you need to do is to spit-roast the fish over low-burning coals. The part that's meant to be boiled must be wrapped in cloth that is constantly doused with salted water with vinegar. The part that's supposed to be fried is basted with oil and sprinkled with flour. And the part that's meant to be roasted is roasted. And here's the full recipe recipë as written by Czerniecki:
[[File:Szczuka całkiem nierozdzielna 2.jpg|thumb|The fried part of the pike being sprinkled with bread crumbs]]
}}
Mickiewicz only used the pike in saffron sauce in a similë, without paying any more attention to it, but in Old Polish times it was one of the nobility's favourite fish-based specialities. And saffron, in general, was one of their fave seasonings; Czerniecki even described Polish cookery as "saffrony and peppery".<ref>S. Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', [https://polona.pl/item/compendium-fercvlorvm-albo-zebranie-potraw,MzQ5MDIzMw/20 s.&nbsp;9]</ref> But since we've already used the pike in the previous dish, let's now have salmon instead, which – again, according to Czerniecki – "is in our Poland of the most subtle flavour." Salmon in "royal saffron sauce" is the opening recipe recipë of the ''Compendium'''s second chapter.
{{ Cytat
}}
And for the third fish dish, let's take that one of Czerniecki's recipes recipës that will allow us to use up the carp and the pine nuts that we already have in store.
{{ Cytat
}}
As you can see, most of this flesh was roasted. What's interesting, Czerniecki included almost no instructions for roasting in his cookbook. He must have thought the procedure too simple to even bother writing about; you just stick the animal on a spit and turn it over a flame, that's all. Most of his recipes recipës are, in fact, for boiled or stewed meats. But we're lucky to have ten recipes recipës from his addendum to the first chapter, all for roast condiments. The author proposes condiments, or rather sauces, made from mushrooms, garlic, mustard seeds, juniper berries, cauliflower, capers, limes, anchovies, oysters… But let's pick the one that is the simplest to make and also the most typically Polish – the onion condiment.
[[File:Pieczeń po huzarsku.jpg|thumb|"''Others, huge roasts onto enormous spits drag…''"<ref>A. Mickiewicz, ''op. cit.'', Book XI, verses 138–139</ref><br>Hussar-style roast beef as made by Ms. Monika Śmigielska, author of the blog [http://www.kuchennykredens.pl/gwozdz-odswietnego-obiadu-wojna-zapomniana-pieczen-huzarska/ "Kuchenny Kredens",] where you can find a more up-to-date recipe recipë (in Polish).]]
{{ Cytat
Roast beef that is sliced not all the way through, with onion filling stuffed into the pockets, is a dish that is still very much part of Polish cuisine today. It was given its current name, "hussar-style beef", in the 19th century, when the stripes of yellowish stuffing reminded our ancestors of the decorative frogging on hussar uniforms.
We know from the poem that poultry was also served. And we haven't yet made any use of the caviar that we know was there. As it turns out, roast capon goes perfectly with caviar, at least if we're to believe Czerniecki. Here's the last recipe recipë from the first chapter of his cookbook:
{{ Cytat
I'll leave it up to you whether to use Venetian or Turkish caviar.
And finally, to use up the prunes, let's have a dish of stewed meat, let's say veal. This is Czerniecki's recipe recipë for a prune stew:
{{ Cytat
| źródło = S. Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', [https://polona.pl/item/compendium-fercvlorvm-albo-zebranie-potraw,MzQ5MDIzMw/102 s.&nbsp;91], own translation }}
Czerniecki doesn't mention it in this reciperecipë, but if you want to make sure the jelly will settle, you may want to stiffen it with a little tragacanth.
We're still keeping with the rule that for each recipe recipë that isn't lean, we're also having one that is. So now let's make some blancmange, which would be purely vegan, if not for the presence of the aforementioned musk (which is added to make sure the aroma doesn't fade away).
{{ Cytat
| źródło = S. Czerniecki, ''op. cit.'', [https://polona.pl/item/compendium-fercvlorvm-albo-zebranie-potraw,MzQ5MDIzMw/99 s.&nbsp;88–89], own translation }}
By the way, Czerniecki also suggests another recipe recipë for lean (but non-vegan) blancmange, which is settled with fish aspic!
== The Centrepiece Masterpiece ==
A rosemary bush covered with whipped-cream "foam" (which has already partly trickled down) and surrounded with cream-filled wafer tubes, the work of Ms. Marta Stelmach (2013).</poem>]]
A winter landscape made out of "sugary foams", that is, sweetened whipped cream, is yet another Baroque idea for a culinary illusion taken from Czerniecki's ''Compendium''. In the original version the whipped cream was supposed to be poured on a rosemary bush surrounded with wafer cream rolls. The whole thing was meant to look like an evergreen tree covered with heavy snow with cones lying on the ground. And here's the reciperecipë:
{{ Cytat
Saffron ice cream by Bogdan Gałązka, Gothic Restaurant, Malbork.</poem>]]
After some time, this foam would trickle down from the bush, producing the illusion of thaw. Winter was gone, spring and summer were here. The foam would also uncover a dark forest made of fruit preserves, fields of buckwheat made from chocolate, apple and pear trees made from, I don't know, some apple-and-pear mousse? And saffron wheat fields, which I suppose doesn't mean naked saffron threads imitating ears of wheat, but rather some kind of paste dyed yellow with saffron. And if soon afterwards "the grain, painted gold, slowly melt[ed] while absorbing the warmth of the hall",<ref>A. Mickiewicz, ''op. cit.'', Book XII, verses 174–175</ref> then it surely must have been saffron ice cream. That would have been a truly Baroque twist: snow imitated by lukewarm cream "foam" followed by summer crops made from ice cream! Sadly, Czerniecki provides no ice cream recipe recipë in his book. But I do know that you can get delicious saffron ice cream (with ground orchid tubers, which give it a peculiar fudgy texture) at [https://gothic.com.pl/ Gothic Restaurant] in the Malbork Castle. I'd say this treat alone would be a good enough reason to visit Malbork, even if the largest brick Gothic castle in the world wasn't in itself a worthy tourist destination.
At the end all that was left were cinnamon canes and laurel branches that were somehow covered in cumin seeds. I'm not sure whether these branches would have made a good snack. I'd rather imagine, in this role, some kind of cumin or caraway-flavoured bread sticks.

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