13 May 2024

Difference between revisions of "Even Older Polish Cookery for Complete Beginners"

From Forking around with history
Jump to navigation Jump to search
 
(106 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{data|???}}
+
{{data|13 May 2024}}
I once wrote here about [[Old Polish Cookery for Beginners|old Polish recipës]] that were both extremely easy to cook and surprisingly modern, which made them perfect for people who were only starting to try their hand at historical culinary reënactment. We could see how a recipë's simplicity could also mean its durability; scrambled eggs, for example, are still prepared in much the same way as they were two hundred, four hundred or one thousand years ago.  
+
I once wrote here about [[Old Polish Cookery for Beginners|old Polish recipës]] that were both extremely easy to cook and surprisingly familiar to our own times, which made them perfect for people who were only starting to try their hand at historical culinary reënactment. We could see how a recipë’s simplicity could also mean its durability; scrambled eggs, for example, are still prepared in much the same way as they were two hundred, four hundred or one thousand years ago.  
  
I took the recipës from ''Compendium Ferculorum'' (''A Collection of Dishes'') by Stanisław Czerniecki, first published in 1682. I wrote then that it was the oldest cookbook ever printed in Polish. Well, that's no longer true. Polish and Ukrainian historians have recently confirmed that an even older Polish-language cookery book was published a century and a half before ''Compendium Ferculorum''. Not a single volume of that older book has survived to our times, but now we know for sure it was there. Some clues about its possible existence in the past had been know earlier, but as the surviving fragments could be suspected of being some 19th-century hoaxes, there was no certainty. Until now. So let's follow the fascinating history of this new oldest Polish printed cookbook and how it was rediscovered. And then, let's pick and try out a recipe from it – one for beginners, of course.
+
I took the recipës from ''Compendium Ferculorum'' (''A Collection of Dishes'') by Stanisław Czerniecki,{{czyt|Stanisław Czerniecki}} first published in 1682. I wrote then that it was the oldest cookbook ever printed in Polish. Well, that’s no longer true. Polish and Ukrainian historians have recently confirmed that an even older Polish-language cookery book was published a century and a half before ''Compendium Ferculorum''. Not a single volume of that older book has survived to our times, but now we know for sure that it did exist. Some clues about its possible existence in the past had been know earlier, but as the surviving fragments could be suspected of being some 19th-century hoaxes, there was no certainty. Until now. So let’s follow the fascinating history of this new oldest Polish printed cookbook and how it was rediscovered. And then, let’s pick a recipë out of it to try out – one for beginners, of course.
  
 
== Cookery Bookery ==
 
== Cookery Bookery ==
[[File:Babilońska tabliczka kucharska.jpg|thumb|upright|A Babylonian cookery tablet dated to ca. 1900–1600 BCE, containing recipës for 25 different kinds of stew]]
+
[[File:Babilońska tabliczka kucharska.jpg|thumb|upright|A Babylonian cookery tablet dated to ca. 1900–1600 {{small|BCE}}, containing recipës for 25 different kinds of stew]]
Cookbooks are one of the oldest literary genres in the world. The earliest known culinary recipës were written down in cuneiform script on clay tablets, in Babylonia, around the 19th century BCE.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
Cookbooks are one of the oldest literary genres in the world. The earliest known culinary recipës were written down in cuneiform script on clay tablets, in Babylonia, around the 19th century {{small|BCE}}.<ref>{{Cyt  
  | tytuł    = Lapham's Quarterly
+
  | tytuł    = Lapham’s Quarterly
 
   | nazwisko r      = Barjamovic ''et al.''
 
   | nazwisko r      = Barjamovic ''et al.''
 
   | imię r          = Gojko  
 
   | imię r          = Gojko  
Line 13: Line 13:
 
   | adres rozdziału = https://www.laphamsquarterly.org/roundtable/ancient-mesopotamian-tablet-cookbook
 
   | adres rozdziału = https://www.laphamsquarterly.org/roundtable/ancient-mesopotamian-tablet-cookbook
 
  | data    = 11 June 2019
 
  | data    = 11 June 2019
  }}</ref> And even these were most likely copied from even older tablets, now lost to time. Because the thing with recipës is that they're much more likely to be copied than written from scratch. You can even see it in the Polish word for "recipë", ''"przepis"'', which literally means "something that is rewritten". Oftentimes, the copyist would add something to the recipë, or perhaps makes some abridgements, redactions or modifications – thus allowing the recipë to evolve. In pre-Internet times, culinary recipës were probably some of the best examples of memes, or units of cultural evolution.<ref>Many people think of memes as nothing but silly pictures shared on the Internet, but they are, in fact, as old as human culture itself. The Internet is only a new medium for memes to spread in, faster than ever before. The notion of memes, as cultural equivalents of genes, was coined by the famous biologist Prof. Richard Dawkins in 1976 (when the Interent was still in its infancy), who wanted to show that you can also study evolution outside of biology ({{Cyt  
+
  }}</ref> And even these were most likely copied from even older tablets, now lost to time. Because the thing with recipës is that they’re much more likely to be copied than written from scratch. You can even see it in the Polish word for “recipë”, ''“przepis”'',{{czyt|przepis}} which literally means “something that is rewritten”. Oftentimes, the copyist would add something to the recipë, or perhaps makes some abridgements, redactions or modifications – thus allowing the recipë to evolve. In pre-Internet times, culinary recipës were probably some of the best examples of memes, or units of cultural evolution.<ref>Many people think of memes as nothing but silly pictures shared on the Internet, but they are, in fact, as old as human culture itself. The Internet is only a&nbsp;new medium for memes to spread in, faster than ever before. The notion of memes, as cultural equivalents of genes, was coined by the famous biologist Prof. Richard Dawkins in 1976 (when the Internet was still in its infancy), who wanted to show that you can also study evolution outside of biology ({{Cyt  
 
  | tytuł    = The Selfish Gene
 
  | tytuł    = The Selfish Gene
 
   | nazwisko r      = Dawkins
 
   | nazwisko r      = Dawkins
Line 21: Line 21:
 
  | rok      = 1989
 
  | rok      = 1989
 
  | strony  = 189–201
 
  | strony  = 189–201
  }}). The very idea of a meme would soon become a successful and quickly evolving meme in and of itself.</ref>
+
  }}). The very idea of a&nbsp;meme would soon become a&nbsp;successful and quickly evolving meme in and of itself.</ref>
  
For this reason, when it comes to old cookbooks, it's difficult to even speak of authorship in any meaningful way. Even if you can see somebody's name on the title page, you can't be really sure whether it's the name of the original author or perhaps of a translator, editor, copyist or publisher. Or maybe of someone who was a little bit of all the above. For the sake of simplicity, I will refer to such a person as "the author", but keep in mind the they need not necessarily be the actual content creator as understood by modern copyright laws. Besides, even the idea of copyright didn't exist before the 19th century. Before that, people would just go and rewrite or reprint books (culinary or any other) without asking anyone for permission. They would sometimes indicate the original author's name in the copy, but sometimes not. The very idea of authenticity didn't exist either, so a copy wasn't seen as something inferior, but rather as a new, maybe even better version of the original thing. According to Galen of Pergamon (of whom [[Good Humour, Good Health#Whose Idea Is It?|I wrote before]]), the famous Library of Alexandria was so big thanks to a policy of sending royal customs officers to each ship which called at the local port, in order to gather any scroll of papyrus or parchment they could find and take it for scribes to make copies of. Then, they would give the shining new copies to the ship's captain, while the library would contend itself with the timeworn originals.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
For this reason, when it comes to old cookbooks, it’s difficult to even speak of authorship in any meaningful way. Even if you can see somebody’s name on the title page, you can’t be really sure whether it’s the name of the original author or perhaps of a&nbsp;translator, editor, copyist or publisher. Or maybe of someone who was a&nbsp;little bit of all the above. For the sake of simplicity, I will refer to such a&nbsp;person as “the author”, but keep in mind that they need not necessarily be the actual content creator as understood by modern copyright laws. Besides, even the idea of copyright didn’t exist before the 19th century. Before that, people would just go and rewrite or reprint books (culinary or any other) without asking anyone for permission. They would sometimes indicate the original author’s name in the copy, but sometimes not. The very idea of authenticity didn’t exist either, so a&nbsp;copy wasn’t seen as something inferior, but rather as a&nbsp;new, maybe even better version of the original thing. According to Galen of Pergamon (of whom [[Good Humour, Good Health#Whose Idea Is It?|I wrote before]]), the famous Library of Alexandria was able to grow so big thanks to a&nbsp;policy of sending royal customs officers to each ship which called at the local port, in order to gather any scroll of papyrus or parchment they could find and take it for scribes to make copies of. Then, they would give the shining new copies to the ship’s captain, while the library would contend itself with the timeworn originals.<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Smith
 
  | nazwisko = Smith
 
  | imię    = Andrew
 
  | imię    = Andrew
 
  | tytuł    = Attalus
 
  | tytuł    = Attalus
 
   | nazwisko r      = Galen of Pergamon
 
   | nazwisko r      = Galen of Pergamon
   | rozdział        = Commentary on Hippocrates' Epidemics
+
   | rozdział        = Commentary on Hippocrates’ Epidemics
 
   | adres rozdziału = http://www.attalus.org/translate/extracts.html#17a.605
 
   | adres rozdziału = http://www.attalus.org/translate/extracts.html#17a.605
  }}</ref> And this was considered progress, not intellectual property theft!
+
  }}</ref> And that was considered progress, not intellectual property theft!
  
[[File:Melozzo da Forlì 001.jpg|thumb|upright=.9|left|Pope Sixtus IV naming Bartolomeo Platina, author of the world's first printed cookbook, Prefect of the Vatican Library<br>{{small|By Melozzo da Forli (ca. 1477)}}]]
+
[[File:Melozzo da Forlì 001.jpg|thumb|upright=.9|left|Pope Sixtus IV naming Bartolomeo Platina, author of the world’s first printed cookbook, Prefect of the Vatican Library<br>{{small|By Melozzo da Forli (ca. 1477)}}]]
Naturally, copying books by hand was labour-intensive and, therefore, costly (even despite relatively low labour costs in the past). Besides, few people could read anyway, so cookbooks (just like any books for that matter) were a rare luxury. This began to change once Johannes Gutenberg invented the movable-type printing press. He used his invention to publish the first printed book (a Bible, obviously) in 1455. It was only 15 years later in Rome that the first ever cookbook was published in print. It was  ''De honesta voluptate et valetudine'' (''Of Honest Pleasure and Good Health'') by Bartolomeo Sacchi (1421–1481), better known as Platina, who served as a papal secretary and librarian, although he actually copied most of the recipës from Martin do Como's handwritten ''Libro de arte coquinaria'' (''Book of Culinary Arts''). It took another 15 years for the first cookbook printed in a vernacular language to come out, namely the German ''Küchenmeisterei'' published by Peter Wagner. The 15th century also saw the first printed cookbooks in French, Italian and English, and the first half of the 16th century, in Dutch, Catalan, Spanish and Czech. The latter book, entitled ''Kuchařstvi'' and published by Pavel Severýn in 1535, in Prague, was a translation of the aforementioned German text. Both titles can be translated as ''Cooking Mastery''.
+
Naturally, copying books by hand was labour-intensive and, therefore, costly (even despite relatively low labour costs in the past). Besides, few people could read anyway, so cookbooks (just like any books for that matter) were a&nbsp;rare luxury. This began to change once Johannes Gutenberg{{czyt|Johannes Gutenberg}} invented the movable-type printing press. He used his invention to publish the first printed book (a&nbsp;Bible, obviously) in 1455. It was only 15 years later in Rome that the first ever cookbook was published in print. It was  ''De honesta voluptate et valetudine'' (''Of Honest Pleasure and Good Health'') by Bartolomeo Sacchi{{czyt|Bartolomeo Sacchi}} (1421–1481), better known as Platina, who served as a&nbsp;papal secretary and librarian. In fact, Platina copied most of the recipës from Martin do Como’s handwritten ''Libro de arte coquinaria'' (''Book of Culinary Arts''). It took another 15 years for the first cookbook printed in a&nbsp;vernacular language to come out, namely the German ''Küchenmeisterei''{{czyt|Küchenmeisterei}} published by Peter Wagner.{{czyt|Peter Wagner}} The 15th century also saw the first printed cookbooks in French, Italian and English, and the first half of the 16th century, in Dutch, Catalan, Spanish and Czech. The latter book, entitled ''Kuchařstvi''{{czyt|Kuchařstvi}} and published by Pavel Severýn{{czyt|Pavel Severýn}} in 1535, in Prague, was a&nbsp;translation of the aforementioned German text. Both titles can be translated as ''Cooking Mastery''.
  
 
And how long did one have to wait for the first cookbook printed in Polish?
 
And how long did one have to wait for the first cookbook printed in Polish?
 
{{clear}}
 
{{clear}}
== A Groundbreaking Discovery ==
 
[[File:Kuchmistrzostwo - ocet.jpg|thumb|upright=.9|One of the surviving pages of ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' with various recipes for vinegar, currently owned by the Warsaw Public Library (ID number: XVI.O.140)]]
 
  
It's by dismantling the covers of old books that historians often make their most interesting discoveries. This is because bookbinders frequently strengthened the covers by gluing together pages torn from even older tomes. Luckily for us, the very first cookbook printed in Polish was among the many books to have fallen victim to this kind of recycling.  
+
== A&nbsp;Groundbreaking Discovery ==
 +
[[File:Kuchmistrzostwo - ocet.jpg|thumb|upright=.9|One of the surviving pages of ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' with various recipës for vinegar, currently owned by the Warsaw Public Library (ID number: XVI.O.140)]]
  
In 1891, Zygmunt Wolski (1862–1931), an apprentice librarian at the Krasiński Library in Warsaw, visited Cezary Wilanowski's (1846–1893) second-hand bookshop, where he found a folder containing four loose sheets of paper that had been removed from an old book cover. The cover bore no title, but it did bear the year of publication: 1538. The four sheets which were reused to strengthen the cover came from three different printed books. Two of the sheets were covered with culinary recipes -- all for different kinds of vinegar, as it happened. Wolski carefully examined the watermarks on the paper, the typeface and the language used in the recipes, and concluded that they must have been printed in the first half of the 16th century.<ref> {{Cyt  
+
The way historians often make their most interesting discoveries is by dismantling the covers of old books. This is because bookbinders in the past frequently strengthened the covers by gluing together pages torn from even older tomes. Luckily for us, the very first cookbook printed in Polish was among the many books to have fallen victim to this kind of recycling.
 +
 
 +
In 1891, Zygmunt Wolski{{czyt|Zygmunt Wolski}} (1862–1931), an apprentice librarian at the Krasiński Library in Warsaw, walked into Cezary Wilanowski’s{{czyt|Cezary Wilanowski}} (1846–1893) second-hand bookshop, where he found a&nbsp;folder containing four loose sheets of paper that had been removed from an old book cover. The cover bore no title, but it did bear the year of publication: 1538. The four sheets which were reused to strengthen the cover came from three different printed books. Two of the sheets were covered with culinary recipës – all for different kinds of vinegar, as it happened. Wolski carefully examined the watermarks on the paper, the typeface and the language used in the recipës, and concluded that they must have been printed in the first half of the 16th century.<ref> {{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Wolski
 
  | nazwisko = Wolski
 
  | imię    = Zygmunt
 
  | imię    = Zygmunt
Line 53: Line 54:
 
  }}</ref>  
 
  }}</ref>  
  
Wolski found the sheets only a year after Artur Benis (1865–1932), a historian at the Jagiellonian University in Cracow who was busy researching the history of book printing in Poland, had published his work on inventories of Cracow's mid-16th-century print shops. Such inventories were typically made for the purposes of inheritance proceedings and contained lists of books which a print shop owner had printed, but died before he could sell them. And so, in an inventory made in 1555, after the death of Helena Unglerowa, widow of Florian Ungler (d.&nbsp;1536), who had been the first person to print books entirely in Polish, there was a mention of 100 unbound copies of a book whose Polish-language title was ''Kuchmistrzosthwo'' (''Cooking Mastery'').<ref>{{Cyt  
+
Wolski found the sheets only a&nbsp;year after Artur Benis{{czyt|Artur Benis}} (1865–1932), a&nbsp;historian at the Jagiellonian University in Cracow who was busy researching the history of book printing in Poland, had published his work on inventories of Cracow’s mid-16th-century print shops. Back in the 16th century, Cracow was Poland's capital city and the cradle of the nation's printing business. The inventories studied by Benis were typically made for the purposes of inheritance proceedings and contained lists of books which a&nbsp;print shop owner had printed, but died before he could sell them. And so, in an inventory made in 1555, after the death of Helena Unglerowa,{{czyt|Helena Unglerowa}} the widow of Florian Ungler{{czyt|Florian Ungler}} (d.&nbsp;1536), who had been the first person to print books entirely in Polish, there was a&nbsp;mention of 100 unbound copies of a&nbsp;book whose rather unpronounceable title (to anyone who isn’t Polish) was ''Kuchmistrzosthwo''{{czyt|Kuchmistrzostwo}} (''Cooking Mastery'').<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Benis
 
  | nazwisko = Benis
 
  | imię    = Artur
 
  | imię    = Artur
Line 62: Line 63:
 
  | url      = https://www.sbc.org.pl/dlibra/publication/11283/edition/10577
 
  | url      = https://www.sbc.org.pl/dlibra/publication/11283/edition/10577
 
  | rok      = 1890
 
  | rok      = 1890
  }}</ref> Wolski connected the dots and concluded that the two sheets with torn edges and printed with vinegar recipes may have come from an otherwise lost coobook with such a previously unkown title.
+
  }}</ref> Wolski connected the dots and concluded that the two damaged sheets printed with vinegar recipës that he found may have come from an otherwise lost cookbook with such a&nbsp;previously unknown title.
  
But that's not all. The same year 1891 saw the publication of two further works which shed more light on these two sheets. Firstly, Benis published the second volume of his ''Inventories'', which contained a mention of a single copy of a cookbook owned by Helena Gałczyna (d.&nbsp;1549), widow of another Cracow printer, Maciej Szarffenberg (d.&nbsp;1547). Additionally, four copies of the same book were listed in the inventory of a Szymon Tyrlikowski's book collection. The title indicated in both inventories, however, was written as ''Kucharstvo'' or ''Kucharsthvo'' (''Cookery'').<ref>{{Cyt  
+
But that’s not all. The same year 1891 saw the publication of two further works which shed more light on these two sheets. Firstly, Benis published the second volume of his ''Inventories'', which contained a&nbsp;mention of a&nbsp;single copy of a&nbsp;cookbook owned by Helena Gałczyna{{czyt|Helena Gałczyna}} (d.&nbsp;1549), the widow of another Cracow printer, Maciej Szarffenberg{{czyt|Maciej Szarffenberg}} (d.&nbsp;1547). Additionally, four copies of the same book were listed in the inventory of a&nbsp;Szymon Tyrlikowski’s book collection. The title indicated in both inventories, however, was written as ''Kucharstvo'' or ''Kucharsthvo''{{czyt|Kucharstwo}} (''Cookery'').<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Benis
 
  | nazwisko = Benis
 
  | imię    = Artur
 
  | imię    = Artur
Line 76: Line 77:
  
 
[[File:Kucharzstwij.jpg|thumb|upright=.8|left|Title page of ''Kuchařství'', the oldest cookbook printed in Czech, first published in 1535]]
 
[[File:Kucharzstwij.jpg|thumb|upright=.8|left|Title page of ''Kuchařství'', the oldest cookbook printed in Czech, first published in 1535]]
Secondly, Čeněk Zíbrt (1864–1932), a historian at Charles University in Prague, published a reprint of the earliest cookbook printed in the Czech language, that is, the aforementioned ''Kuchařství''.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
Secondly, Čeněk Zíbrt{{czyt|Čeněk Zíbrt}} (1864–1932), a&nbsp;historian at Charles University in Prague, published a&nbsp;reprint of the earliest cookbook printed in the Czech language, that is, the aforementioned ''Kuchařství''.<ref>{{Cyt  
  | inni    = red. Čeněk Zíbrt
+
  | inni    = ed. Čeněk Zíbrt
 
  | tytuł    = Kuchařství: O&nbsp;rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají
 
  | tytuł    = Kuchařství: O&nbsp;rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají
 
  | url      = https://ndk.cz/view/uuid:c98b0870-7c8c-11dc-9c76-000d606f5dc6?page=uuid:c64b1dd9-1496-4ec4-8e98-d5a0279aba42
 
  | url      = https://ndk.cz/view/uuid:c98b0870-7c8c-11dc-9c76-000d606f5dc6?page=uuid:c64b1dd9-1496-4ec4-8e98-d5a0279aba42
Line 83: Line 84:
 
  | miejsce  = Praha
 
  | miejsce  = Praha
 
  | rok      = 1891
 
  | rok      = 1891
  }}</ref> This allowed Władysław Wisłocki (1841–1900), custodian of the Jagiellonian University Library, to compare the vinegar recipes discovered by Wolski with recipes found in the Czech book. And he realized that what Wolski found were indeed fragments of the oldest printed Polish cookbook, which happened to be a translation of the Czech ''Kuchařství''. And, according to Wisłocki, the title was rendered into Polish as ''Kucharstwo'', rather than ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' as Wolski had claimed.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
  }}</ref> This allowed Władysław Wisłocki{{czyt|Władysław Wisłocki}} (1841–1900), custodian of the Jagiellonian University Library, to compare the vinegar recipës discovered by Wolski with recipës found in the Czech book. And he realized that what Wolski found were indeed fragments of the oldest printed Polish-language cookbook, but it hadn't been written originally in that language; it was a&nbsp;Polish translation of the Czech ''Kuchařství''. And, according to Wisłocki, the title was rendered into Polish as ''Kucharstwo'', rather than ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' as Wolski had claimed.<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Wisłocki
 
  | nazwisko = Wisłocki
 
  | imię    = Władysław
 
  | imię    = Władysław
Line 93: Line 94:
 
  | wolumin  = 14/10
 
  | wolumin  = 14/10
 
  | strony  = 166–167
 
  | strony  = 166–167
  }}</ref> The question of the book's title has never been fully resolved, but somehow, contrary to Wisłocki's view, it is now more commonly referred to as ''Kuchmistrzostwo''.
+
  }}</ref> The question of the book’s title has never been fully resolved either way, but somehow, contrary to Wisłocki’s view, it is now more commonly referred to by the longer title.
  
All this is well and good, but what kind of discovery is it when all that we have from the oldest Polish cookbook are recipes for vinegar? Yes, vinegar was formerly an extremely important preservative and a popular condiment, produced in may different ways, from wine or beer, and sometimes flavoured with various additives. You could, for example, make it like this:
+
All this is well and good, but what kind of discovery is it when all that we have from the oldest Polish cookbook are recipës for vinegar? Yes, vinegar was formerly an extremely important preservative and a&nbsp;popular condiment, produced in many different ways, from wine or beer, and sometimes flavoured with various additives. You could, for example, make it like this:
  
 
{{ Cytat  
 
{{ Cytat  
| Take the vessel you wish to use for your vinegar, pour enough old wine to fill half of the vessel, place it in the sunshine and let it stay warm, but better keep it a distance away from fire; this way you will always have good wine vinegar.
+
| Take the vessel you wish to use for your vinegar, pour enough old wine to fill half of the vessel, place it in the sunshine and let it stay warm, but better keep it a&nbsp;distance away from fire; this way you will always have good wine vinegar.
 
| oryg = Weźmij naczynie, jakie chcesz mieć ku [octu], wlej do niego wina starego, coby mog[ło być] pół tego naczynia, postaw je na słońce, [niech] się grzeje, ale lepiej u&nbsp;ognia z&nbsp;daleka [przy]lewaj, zawżdy ktemu będziesz miał o[cet do]bry w[i]nny.
 
| oryg = Weźmij naczynie, jakie chcesz mieć ku [octu], wlej do niego wina starego, coby mog[ło być] pół tego naczynia, postaw je na słońce, [niech] się grzeje, ale lepiej u&nbsp;ognia z&nbsp;daleka [przy]lewaj, zawżdy ktemu będziesz miał o[cet do]bry w[i]nny.
 
| źródło =  {{Cyt  
 
| źródło =  {{Cyt  
Line 104: Line 105:
 
  | url      = http://mbc.cyfrowemazowsze.pl/dlibra/docmetadata?id=65559
 
  | url      = http://mbc.cyfrowemazowsze.pl/dlibra/docmetadata?id=65559
 
  | wydawca  = [Hieronim Wietor]
 
  | wydawca  = [Hieronim Wietor]
  | miejsce  = [Kraków]
+
  | miejsce  = [Cracow]
 
  | rok      = [ok. 1540]
 
  | rok      = [ok. 1540]
 
  }}, f1r, Warsaw Public Library, XVI.O.140, own translation
 
  }}, f1r, Warsaw Public Library, XVI.O.140, own translation
 
| jęz = Polish
 
| jęz = Polish
| oryg2 = Vezmi nádobu nebo soudek a vlij do něho starého vína, což by mohlo polovice soudku býti, a vstav je na slunce až se zhřeje, ale lépe jest k ohni zdaleka přistaviti, ať se zhřeje, a přilévej k tomu vždy, a budeš míti ocet dobrý v[i]nný na místo.
+
| oryg2 = Vezmi nádobu nebo soudek a&nbsp;vlij do něho starého vína, což by mohlo polovice soudku býti, a&nbsp;vstav je na slunce až se zhřeje, ale lépe jest k ohni zdaleka přistaviti, ať se zhřeje, a&nbsp;přilévej k tomu vždy, a&nbsp;budeš míti ocet dobrý v[i]nný na místo.
 
| źródło-oryg2 =  {{Cyt  
 
| źródło-oryg2 =  {{Cyt  
  | inni    = red. Čeněk Zíbrt
+
  | inni    = ed. Čeněk Zíbrt
 
  | tytuł    = Kuchařství: O&nbsp;rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají
 
  | tytuł    = Kuchařství: O&nbsp;rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají
 
  | url      = https://ndk.cz/view/uuid:c98b0870-7c8c-11dc-9c76-000d606f5dc6?page=uuid:4b99a1d3-2b8d-4463-9e2f-e0c5cefc5d49
 
  | url      = https://ndk.cz/view/uuid:c98b0870-7c8c-11dc-9c76-000d606f5dc6?page=uuid:4b99a1d3-2b8d-4463-9e2f-e0c5cefc5d49
Line 123: Line 124:
  
 
== Another Groundbreaking Discovery ==
 
== Another Groundbreaking Discovery ==
[[File:Pieczeń wołowa po węgiersku.JPG|thumb|Another surviving sheet from ''Kuchmistrzostwo'', this one with recipes for meat dishes, currently owned by the Jagiellonian Library in Cracow (ID number: Cim 0.913)]]
+
[[File:Pieczeń wołowa po węgiersku.JPG|thumb|Another surviving sheet from ''Kuchmistrzostwo'', this one with recipës for meat dishes, currently owned by the Jagiellonian Library in Cracow (ID number: Cim 0.913)]]
One had to wait almost forty years for something more, but I think it must have been worth it. It was then that Kazimierz Piekarski (1893–1944), head of the Old Prints Department at the Jagiellonian Library, discovered a badly damaged sheet of paper printed with more recipes from ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' (or ''Kucharstwo, if you wish). He removed it, naturally, from the cover of a different tome, namely the 1549 edition of ''De Tuenda Valetudine Libri Sex'' (''Six Books on the Preservation of Health'') by the aforemntioned Galen.  
+
For something more, one had to wait almost forty years, but I believe it was worth it. It was then that Kazimierz Piekarski{{czyt|Kazimierz Piekarski}} (1893–1944), head of the Old Prints Department at the Jagiellonian Library, discovered a&nbsp;badly damaged sheet of paper printed with more recipës from ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' (or ''Kucharstwo'', if you wish). He removed the sheet, naturally, from the cover of a&nbsp;different tome, namely the 1549 edition of the Latin-language ''De Tuenda Valetudine Libri Sex'' (''Six Books on the Preservation of Health'') by the aforementioned Galen.  
  
Piekarski dokładnie zbadał krój czcionki użyty do wydrukowania zarówno odkrytej przez siebie karty, jak i&nbsp;tych z&nbsp;przepisami na ocet, oraz porównał je z&nbsp;czcionkami używanymi przez poszczególnych drukarzy krakowskich w&nbsp;pierwszej połowie XVI&nbsp;w. I&nbsp;wyszło mu, że oba fragmenty pochodziły wprawdzie z&nbsp;tej samej książki kucharskiej, ale z&nbsp;różnych jej edycji. Kartę z&nbsp;Jagiellonki odbito czcionką stosowaną w&nbsp;drukarni Macieja Szarffenberga, zaś obie kartki odkryte w&nbsp;Warszawie musiały zostać wydrukowane czcionką, której używał Hieronim Wietor (ok. 1480–1547) – a&nbsp;więc nie Florian Ungler, jak zakładał Wolski. No ale, jeśli w&nbsp;inwentarzu po Unglerowej znalazło się aż sto egzemplarzy tej książki, to prawdopodobnie Ungler też musiał drukować swoje własne wydanie tej książki, chociaż akurat z&nbsp;jego edycji nie zachował się do naszych czasów żaden fragment.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
Piekarski examined the typefaces used both on the sheet he had found and on the pages with vinegar recipës discovered by Wolski, and then compared them with the typefaces known to be used by different Cracow printers in the first half of the 16th century. And he came to the conclusion that the two fragments came from two different editions of the same cookbook. The sheet found at the Jagiellonian Library was printed with types used at Maciej Szarffenberg’s print shop, while the two sheets discovered in Warsaw must have been printed with types employed by Hieronim Wietor{{czyt|Hieronim Wietor}} (ca. 1480–1547) – rather than by Florian Ungler as Wolski had assumed. But if a&nbsp;hundred unsold copies were found in Mrs. Unlger’s inventory, then Ungler must have also printed his own edition of the same cookbook, although not a&nbsp;single copy of that edition has survived to our times.<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | tytuł    = Przegląd Bibljoteczny
 
  | tytuł    = Przegląd Bibljoteczny
| url      =
 
 
   | nazwisko r      = Piekarski  
 
   | nazwisko r      = Piekarski  
 
   | imię r          = Kazimierz
 
   | imię r          = Kazimierz
Line 138: Line 138:
 
  | wolumin  = IV
 
  | wolumin  = IV
 
  | strony  = 415–418
 
  | strony  = 415–418
  }}</ref> A&nbsp;to by znaczyło, że ta pierwsza polska drukowana książka kucharska musiała mieć co najmniej trzy wydania od trzech różnych drukarzy.
+
  }}</ref> And this would mean that the first cookbook printed in Polish had at least three different editions from three different printers.
  
No i&nbsp;wreszcie na tej nowo odnalezionej karcie mamy już przepisy nie tylko na ocet, a&nbsp;na porządne potrawy z&nbsp;mięsa, ba, nawet z&nbsp;dziczyzny! W&nbsp;tytule pierwszego przepisu widać też drobne, lecz ciekawe odstępstwo XVI-wiecznego polskiego tłumacza od oryginalnej treści. Czeski tekst mówi bowiem o&nbsp;„zwierzynie bawołowej, żubrowej albo z&nbsp;innych niezwyczajnych zwierząt z&nbsp;cudzych krain”, natomiast w&nbsp;wersji polskiej jest mowa o&nbsp;„zwierzynie bawołowej albo żubrowej i&nbsp;inszej, nie będącej w&nbsp;obyczaju ''polskiej'' ziemi”. Z&nbsp;jednej strony rozumiem chęć tłumacza do tego, by dostosować treść pod względem geograficznym do polskiego czytelnika, ale z&nbsp;drugiej – zrobił to nieco połowicznie. Bo o&nbsp;ile w&nbsp;XVI&nbsp;w. żubry już w&nbsp;Czechach nie występowały, to przecież na terenie Polski były nadal dostępne.  
+
But, perhaps more importantly, on this newly discovered sheet we can finally find recipës not for vinegar, but for decent meat dishes. Even game meat, to boot! In the title of the first recipë we can also see a&nbsp;small, but interesting modification made by the 16th-century Polish translator. The original Czech version speaks of “buffalo, bison or other uncommon game, not found in our lands”, whereas the Polish translation has “buffalo, bison or other game, uncommon in ''Polish'' lands” (the buffalo here is the water buffalo, not the American cousin of the European bison). On the one hand, I understand the translator’s urge to localize the text a&nbsp;little, but on the other, it seems to me that he did it somewhat half-heartedly. It’s true that, by the 16th century, bison had already been extinct in Bohemia, or what is now the Czech Republic, but it still roamed the vast forests of Poland, so it wasn’t that exotic to Polish cuisine.
  
 
{{clear}}
 
{{clear}}
 
{{ Cytat  
 
{{ Cytat  
| [Zwierzyna bawołowa albo żubrow]a i&nbsp;insze, nie będące w&nbsp;obyczaju polskiej [ziemi, j]edno w&nbsp;cudzych stronach. Tak na nie juchę [tj. sos] wyborną działaj. Weźmij rodzynków, fig, a&nbsp;ususz grzankę z&nbsp;białego chleba, włóż wszystko społem do moździerza, a&nbsp;daj tłuc, a&nbsp;gdy już utłuczesz, jako ma być, zagrzawszy wina, wlej w&nbsp;to i&nbsp;przecedź przez chustę, a&nbsp;nadziaławszy sztuk z&nbsp;tej zwierzyny, wlej na nie tę juchę, włóż do kotła albo do garnca, a&nbsp;okorzeń [tj. przypraw] pieprzem, imbirem, szafranem, goździk[am]i, a&nbsp;osłodź mało cukrem albo miodem, a&nbsp;usmaż na nie jabłek, rodzynków małych i&nbsp;wielkich, migdałów albo jako kto chce mieć według swego gospodarstwa.  
+
| Buffalo, bison or other game, unusual in Polish lands, but only in foreign countries. Make sauce for this [meat] in the following way. Take raisins, figs and make a&nbsp;toast of white bread, put it all in a&nbsp;mortar and let grind, and once it’s well ground, pour in some heated wine and strain it through cloth, and having cut up the meat into morsels, cover them with the sauce in a&nbsp;cauldron or a&nbsp;pot, season with pepper, ginger, saffron, cloves and sweeten a&nbsp;little with sugar or honey, and add some fried apples, raisins large and small, almonds and anything else, according to [what you have in] your household.
 +
| oryg = [Zwierzyna bawołowa albo żubrow]a i&nbsp;insze, nie będące w&nbsp;obyczaju polskiej [ziemi, j]edno w&nbsp;cudzych stronach. Tak na nie juchę wyborną działaj. Weźmij rodzynków, fig, a&nbsp;ususz grzankę z&nbsp;białego chleba, włóż wszystko społem do moździerza, a&nbsp;daj tłuc, a&nbsp;gdy już utłuczesz, jako ma być, zagrzawszy wina, wlej w&nbsp;to i&nbsp;przecedź przez chustę, a&nbsp;nadziaławszy sztuk z&nbsp;tej zwierzyny, wlej na nie tę juchę, włóż do kotła albo do garnca, a&nbsp;okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, szafranem, goździk[am]i, a&nbsp;osłodź mało cukrem albo miodem, a&nbsp;usmaż na nie jabłek, rodzynków małych i&nbsp;wielkich, migdałów albo jako kto chce mieć według swego gospodarstwa.  
 
| źródło =  {{Cyt  
 
| źródło =  {{Cyt  
 
  | tytuł    = [Kuchmistrzostwo]
 
  | tytuł    = [Kuchmistrzostwo]
Line 151: Line 152:
 
  | miejsce  = [Kraków]
 
  | miejsce  = [Kraków]
 
  | rok      = [ok. 1540]
 
  | rok      = [ok. 1540]
  }}, f1v, Biblioteka Jagiellońska, Dział Starodruków, sygn. Cim 0.913
+
  }}, f1v, Jagiellonian Library, Old Prints Department, Cim 0.913, own translation
| oryg = Zvĕřina buvolová aneb zubrová, aneb jiné neobyčejná jakákoli zvĕř z&nbsp;cizích krajin. Takto se má na ně jícha výborná dělati. Vezmi fíkuov a&nbsp;řeckého vína, a&nbsp;usuše topenek z&nbsp;bílého chleba, daj to spolu do moždíře, ať se stluče, a&nbsp;když se na místo stluče, shřeje vína, vlí do toho, a&nbsp;protáhni skrze hartúch, a&nbsp;nadělaje kusuo z&nbsp;těch zvĕřin, daj na ně tu jíchu do kotla, neb do hrnce, a&nbsp;okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, šafránem, hřebičky, a&nbsp;oslaď malo cukrem nebo medem, a&nbsp;upretuj na ní jablek, řeckého vína, mandluov, hrozenek, aneb jak kdo chce míti, vedle běhu hospodářského.
+
| jęz = Polish
| źródło-oryg =  {{Cyt  
+
| oryg2 = Zvĕřina buvolová aneb zubrová, aneb jiné neobyčejná jakákoli zvĕř z&nbsp;cizích krajin. Takto se má na ně jícha výborná dělati. Vezmi fíkuov a&nbsp;řeckého vína, a&nbsp;usuše topenek z&nbsp;bílého chleba, daj to spolu do moždíře, ať se stluče, a&nbsp;když se na místo stluče, shřeje vína, vlí do toho, a&nbsp;protáhni skrze hartúch, a&nbsp;nadělaje kusuo z&nbsp;těch zvĕřin, daj na ně tu jíchu do kotla, neb do hrnce, a&nbsp;okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, šafránem, hřebičky, a&nbsp;oslaď malo cukrem nebo medem, a&nbsp;upretuj na ní jablek, řeckého vína, mandluov, hrozenek, aneb jak kdo chce míti, vedle běhu hospodářského.
  | inni    = red. Čeněk Zíbrt
+
| źródło-oryg2 =  {{Cyt  
 +
  | inni    = ed. Čeněk Zíbrt
 
  | tytuł    = Kuchařství: O&nbsp;rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají
 
  | tytuł    = Kuchařství: O&nbsp;rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají
 
  | url      = https://ndk.cz/view/uuid:c98b0870-7c8c-11dc-9c76-000d606f5dc6?page=uuid:4a1571ed-d2be-4151-afa5-522e209625f6
 
  | url      = https://ndk.cz/view/uuid:c98b0870-7c8c-11dc-9c76-000d606f5dc6?page=uuid:4a1571ed-d2be-4151-afa5-522e209625f6
Line 161: Line 163:
 
  | rok      = 1891
 
  | rok      = 1891
 
  | strony  = [IV]
 
  | strony  = [IV]
  }} }}
+
  }}  
 +
| jęz2 = Czech }}
  
Pozostaje jeszcze kwestia datowania tej najstarszej wydanej drukiem polskiej książki kucharskiej. Na pewno jej pierwsza edycja nie mogła się ukazać wcześniej niż w&nbsp;1535&nbsp;r., kiedy to w&nbsp;Czechach wydano ''Kuchařství''. W&nbsp;końcu przekład nie mógł starszy od oryginału. Natomiast najpóźniejsza możliwa data to rok 1547, w&nbsp;którym zanotowano książkę kucharską w&nbsp;inwentarzu Szarffenberga. Dopiero w&nbsp;XXI&nbsp;w. udało się ten dwunastoletni zakres zawęzić. Otóż w&nbsp;katalogu księgozbioru austriackiego kolekcjonera Hieronymusa Becka z&nbsp;Leopoldsdorfu (1525–1596) znaleziono następujący zapis: „Kuchmistrzstwo [sic] Prossowol 1536”. Słowo „Prossowol” odnosi się być może do jakiegoś drukarza rodem z&nbsp;podkrakowskich Proszowic. W&nbsp;każdym razie, jeśli ów proszowianin rzeczywiście wydał ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' już w&nbsp;1536&nbsp;r., to znaczy, że zrobił to zaledwie rok po ukazaniu się czeskiego pierwowzoru.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
And then, there remains the question of how to date this oldest Polish cookbook. Its first edition couldn’t be published earlier than 1535, which was when ''Kuchařství'' came out in Prague. After all, the translation can’t be older that the original. The latest possible date, on the other hand, is 1547, which is when the cookbook was noted in Szarffenberg’s inventory. It was only in the 21st century that it was possible to significantly narrow this 12-year gap, thanks to a&nbsp;catalogue of the library which belonged to Austrian book collector Hieronymus Beck von Leopoldsdorf{{czyt|Hieronymus Beck von Leopoldsdorf}} (1525–1596). One of the items listed in his catalogue is “''Kuchmistrzstwo'' Prossowol 1536”. It’s unclear what “Prossowol” could mean; it may have referred to some printer who hailed from the village of Proszowice{{czyt|Proszowice}} near Cracow. In any case, if that printer had published an edition of ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' as early as 1536, then it would mean that the Polish translation came out only a&nbsp;year after the Czech original.<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | tytuł    = Silva Rerum
 
  | tytuł    = Silva Rerum
 
   | nazwisko r      = Herman
 
   | nazwisko r      = Herman
Line 171: Line 174:
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
 
  | miejsce  = Warszawa
 
  | miejsce  = Warszawa
  | data    = 3 grudnia 2020
+
  | data    = 3 December 2020
 
  }}</ref>
 
  }}</ref>
  
== Jeszcze bardziej sensacyjne odkrycie ==
+
== An Even More Groundbreaking Discovery ==
Część historyków miała jednak wątpliwości. Jeśli ta książka była tak poczytna, że w&nbsp;ciągu piętnastu lat ukazała się w&nbsp;aż trzech czy nawet czterech różnych wydaniach, to dlaczego nie zachował się ani jeden w&nbsp;miarę kompletny egzemplarz? Dlaczego jedyne dowody na jej istnienie to trzy postrzępione kartki i&nbsp;kilka wzmianek w&nbsp;inwentarzach, które nie mogą się nawet zgodzić co do jej tytułu? Co gorsze, kartki z&nbsp;przepisami na ocet gdzieś się chyba na jakiś czas zawieruszyły, przez co historycy mieli do dyspozycji jedynie wykonane przez Wolskiego faksymile, którego autentyczność można było podważać.  
+
Some historians had their doubts, though. If the cookbook was so popular that it had three or even four editions published within fifteen years, then how come not a&nbsp;single more or less complete copy has survived to our times? Why is it that the only proofs for the book’s existence in the past are just three frayed sheets and a&nbsp;few mentions in inventories, which don’t even agree about its title? Even worse, the two sheets with vinegar recipës got somehow misplaced, so for a&nbsp;time, all that historians had at their disposal was a&nbsp;facsimilë which Wolski had had made and whose authenticity could be questioned.
  
Oczywiście można te wątpliwości tłumaczyć w&nbsp;ten sposób, że im książka bardziej poczytna, tym większe ryzyko, że zostanie zaczytana do cna. A&nbsp;tym bardziej, jeśli chodzi o&nbsp;książkę kucharską, która ze względu na swój użytkowy charakter jest szczególnie narażona na zniszczenie. Co do tego, jak ta książka się właściwie nazywała, można sobie wyobrazić, że różni wydawcy drukowali to samo dzieło pod różnymi tytułami, co wcale nie należało do rzadkości. Tak czy inaczej, znaki zapytania pozostawały.  
+
You could explain these doubts away by saying that the more popular a&nbsp;book is, the more likely it is to be worn down to nothing. It’s even more true for a&nbsp;cookery book, which was particularly vulnerable due to its utilitarian character. As for the question of its exact title, one can imagine a&nbsp;scenario in which different printers published the same book under different titles, which wasn’t that rare a&nbsp;case at all. Be it as it may, some question marks remained.
  
[[File:O zwierzynie.jpg|thumb|Karta rękopiśmiennego ''Zbioru dla kuchmistrza'', na której, od nagłówka „O zwierzynie”, zaczynają się receptury przepisane z&nbsp;''Kuchmistrzostwa'']]
+
[[File:O zwierzynie.jpg|thumb|A folio of the manuscript ''Zbiór dla kuchmistrza'' (''A Collection for the Master Chef''). The heading ''O zwierzynie'' (''Of Game Dishes'') opens the block of recipës copied from ''Kuchmistrzostwo''.]]
Odkrycia, które praktycznie rozwiało wszelkie wątpliwości co do faktycznego istnienia oraz treści ''Kuchmistrzostwa'', dokonała jakieś dziesięć lat temu dr Switłana Bułatowa z&nbsp;Instytutu Rękopisów Biblioteki Narodowej w&nbsp;Kijowie.<ref>{{Cyt  
+
The discovery which practically removed all the remaining doubts about the actual existence of ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' and its contents was made about ten years ago by Dr Svitlana Bulatova{{czyt|Switłana Bułatowa}} at the Manuscript Institute of the National Library of Ukraine in Kyiv.<ref>{{Cyt  
 
  | tytuł    = Рукописна та книжкова спадщина України
 
  | tytuł    = Рукописна та книжкова спадщина України
 
   | nazwisko r      = Булатова
 
   | nazwisko r      = Булатова
Line 189: Line 192:
 
  | wolumin  = 20
 
  | wolumin  = 20
 
  | strony  = 22–42
 
  | strony  = 22–42
  }}</ref> Ale chwilę – spytacie – jak to z&nbsp;Instytutu Rękopisów? Przecież nam tu chodzi o&nbsp;książkę drukowaną! No i&nbsp;to prawda, ale przypomnijmy, że mówimy tu o&nbsp;przepisach, czyli o&nbsp;czymś, co się ''przepisuje''. W&nbsp;czasach, kiedy nikt nie nosił w&nbsp;kieszeni telefonu z&nbsp;aparatem fotograficznym i&nbsp;funkcją OCR – ba, kiedy nie było nawet kserokopiarek zupełnie normalnym było to, że ludzie wybierali z&nbsp;dostępnych im źródeł drukowanych interesujące ich receptury kulinarne i&nbsp;przepisywali je sobie ręcznie  do jakiegoś zeszyciku. Czasami powstawały w&nbsp;ten sposób całe wielkie rękopiśmienne księgi skompilowane z&nbsp;różnych źródeł, zarówno drukowanych, jak i&nbsp;pisanych ręcznie. I&nbsp;na taki właśnie manuskrypt, zatytułowany: ''Zbiór dla kuchmistrza, tak potraw jako ciast robienia'', zwróciła uwagę pani Bułatowa, która następnie nawiązała współpracę z&nbsp;największym specjalistą od historii polskiej kuchni, czyli prof. Jarosławem Dumanowskim z&nbsp;Uniwersytetu im. Kopernika w&nbsp;Toruniu.
+
  }}</ref> But hold on, you may say, why the ''Manuscript'' Institute? We’re talking about a&nbsp;''printed'' book, aren’t we? Well, yes, but keep in mind what we said about culinary recipës being constantly copied and rewritten. Back when nobody kept a&nbsp;smartphone equipped with a&nbsp;camera and an OCR function in the pocket back when even photocopiers didn’t exist people commonly copied recipës they found in printed sources by hand. Sometimes they would even create entire manuscript cookbooks that were compilations of recipës taken from diverse sources, both printed and handwritten. It was one such manuscript, entitled ''Zbiór dla kuchmistrza, tak potraw jako ciast robienia''{{czyt|Zbiór dla kuchmistrza, tak potraw jako ciast robienia}} (''A&nbsp;Collection for the Master Chef, of Recipës for Dishes, as Well as for Cakes'') that caught Dr. Bulatova’s attention and led her to get in touch with the foremost specialist on the history of Polish cuisine, Prof. Jarosław Dumanowski{{czyt|Jarosław Dumanowski}} at Copernicus University in Toruń.
  
Rękopis zawiera łącznie około tysiąca różnych przepisów kulinarnych oraz porad medycznych, weterynaryjnych i&nbsp;ogrodniczych, spisanych jednym, dość czytelnym charakterem pisma. Skąd poszczególne receptury i&nbsp;porady zostały przepisane, w&nbsp;manuskrypcie nie zawsze podano, ale już po samym stylu i&nbsp;formach gramatycznych widać, że pochodzą one z&nbsp;różnych źródeł i&nbsp;różnych epok głównie z&nbsp;XVI i&nbsp;XVII wieku. Tymczasem na stronie tytułowej kopista wyraźnie zaznaczył, iż pracę nad owym zbiorem przepisów zakończył 25 lipca 1757&nbsp;r. (takie datowanie potwierdza też analiza znaków wodnych na papierze). A&nbsp;zatem w&nbsp;momencie utworzenia rękopisu, przepisy, które się w&nbsp;nim znalazły, już były całkiem stare. Sam kopista nie podpisał się wprawdzie na swoim dziele, za to w&nbsp;kilku miejscach podpisała się jego właścicielka: „Ta xionska z&nbsp;moiey biblioteki – R.&nbsp;Pocieiowa”. Na tej podstawie można zakładać, iż książka powstała na zlecenie strażnikowej litewskiej Rozalii z&nbsp;Zahorowskich Pociejowej (ok.&nbsp;1690–1762), kobiety należącej do zamożnej szlachty wołyńskiej i&nbsp;blisko skoligaconej z&nbsp;najwyższymi dostojnikami państwowymi. Co mogło ją skłonić do stworzenia własnej kompilacji przepisów z&nbsp;poprzednich stuleci? Czyżby interesowała się historią kuchni? A&nbsp;może te stare przepisy wydawały jej się nadal aktualne i&nbsp;ich zbiór miał dla niej charakter czysto utylitarny? Tego do końca nie wiadomo.  
+
The manuscript contains a&nbsp;total of about a&nbsp;thousand recipës, as well as medical, veterinary and gardening tips – all written by the same hand. The sources these recipës and tips were gleaned from are not always indicated in the text, but you can see from the different styles and grammars that they must have originated in various historical periods mostly within the 16th and 17th centuries. And yet, the copyist who made the manuscript clearly indicated on the title page that he finished his work on 25 July 1757 (such dating is further borne out by water marks found on the paper). Which means that by the time the manuscript was created, the recipës which were copied into it had already been quite old. The copyist himself didn’t sign his work, but the book’s first owner left her signatures on three different pages. It was Rozalia Pociejowa ''née'' Zahorowska{{czyt|Rozalia Pociejowa Zahorowska}} (ca.&nbsp;1690–1762), a&nbsp;prominent noblewoman from the region of Volynia in what is now western Ukraine. What led her to commission such a&nbsp;compilation of recipës from previous centuries? Did she wish to study culinary history? Or maybe these old recipës still seemed relevant to her own times and she saw the collection in purely practical terms? We don’t really know.
  
Wiadomo natomiast, skąd pochodzi blok 224 przepisów, które wyróżniają się w&nbsp;rękopisie najbardziej archaicznym językiem. Otóż są to receptury znane z&nbsp;czeskiego ''Kuchařství'', tylko przetłumaczone na język polski. I&nbsp;widać po stylu i&nbsp;gramatyce, że jest to polszczyzna XVI-wieczna, a&nbsp;więc przekładu nie dokonano w&nbsp;momencie tworzenia rękopisu, tylko wykorzystano – albo zachowany jeszcze wtedy w&nbsp;całości, albo już wcześniej przepisany przez kogoś ręcznie – przekład sprzed ponad dwustu lat.  
+
What we do know is where a&nbsp;block of 224 recipës which stand out from the rest as being written in a&nbsp;particularly archaic language come from. They are all old Polish translations of recipës from the Czech ''Kuchařství''. It’s clear from the style and the grammar of these recipës that they were all written in early-16th-century Polish, which means that the translation couldn’t have been made at the same time as the manuscript was written. The copyist must have used an existing 200-year-old translation, which was either still preserved in its printed form at the time or had already been copied by hand from a&nbsp;printed book before.
  
Są też inne poszlaki, które dodatkowo potwierdzają, że autor rękopisu musiał mieć dostęp do tej samej drukowanej książki, z&nbsp;której tylko trzy kartki zachowały się do dziś. Po pierwsze, w&nbsp;rękopisie znajduje się modyfikacja tytułu jednego z&nbsp;przepisów, którą znamy już z&nbsp;karty znalezionej w&nbsp;Jagiellonce: „Zwierzyna bawołowa albo żubrowa i&nbsp;insze nie będące w&nbsp;obyczaju ''polskiej'' ziemie, jeno w&nbsp;cudzy[ch] krajach”. A&nbsp;po drugie, w&nbsp;innym przepisie, gdzie jest mowa o&nbsp;rozwałkowaniu żytniego ciasta,  znalazła się pewna charakterystyczna literówka: „weźmi ciasta rżanego jako bochen chleba abo więcej i&nbsp;rozdziałaj jako szyroto jest”. Oczywiście powinno być: „szyroko”, czyli: „szeroko”; skąd zatem tam się wzięło to „t”? Ano pewnie stąd, że XVIII-wieczny kopista miał problem z&nbsp;odczytaniem XVI-wiecznego kroju czcionki drukarskiej. A&nbsp;że nie jest łatwo, to zobaczcie sami: kto zgadnie, jakie słowo (wycięte z&nbsp;jednej z&nbsp;zachowanych kart) znajduje się na obrazku poniżej?<ref>Poprawna odpowiedź: „kotła”.</ref> W&nbsp;każdym razie, jeśli przepisywacz popełnił błąd z&nbsp;powodu złego odczytania drukowanej litery, to znaczy, że musiał przepisywać tekst drukowany – a&nbsp;to z&nbsp;kolei znaczy, iż ten tekst drukowany musiał istnieć!
+
There are other clues, too, which confirm that the author of the manuscript had access to the same printed cookbook of which only the three sheets survive today. One is that the manuscript contains the modified title of one of the recipës that we already saw on the sheet found at the Jagiellonian Library: “buffalo, bison or other game which is uncommon in Polish lands, but only in foreign countries”. Another is a&nbsp;word incorrectly written with the letter T where one would expect the letter K. It looks like the 18th-century copyist had trouble reading 16th-century typeface, in which the K’s and the T’s do indeed look quite similar. See for yourselves: can your make out the word written in the picture below?<ref>The correct answer is: ''“kotła”''.{{czyt|kotła}}</ref> So if the copyist misspelled a&nbsp;word because he'd misread a&nbsp;printed letter, then he must have been copying a&nbsp;printed text – and this means that the printed text must have existed in the first place!
  
[[File:Kotła.JPG|thumb|left|upright|Co tu jest napisane?|alt=Kotła]]
+
[[File:Kotła.JPG|thumb|left|upright|What does it say? Can you make out the letters? Hint: it means “of a&nbsp;cauldron” in Polish.]]
A zatem: nie zachował się ani jeden kompletny egzemplarz najstarszej książki kucharskiej wydrukowanej w&nbsp;języku polskim, ale wiemy, że ta książka istniała dzięki dawnym inwentarzom drukarni, trzem zachowanym kartkom oraz jednemu kompletnemu rękopisowi, w&nbsp;którym owa książka drukowana została w&nbsp;całości przepisana. Wiemy też, że wydano ją ok. 1536 roku w&nbsp;Krakowie, że nosiła tytuł: ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' bądź ''Kucharstwo'' oraz że był to przekład wydanej rok wcześniej czeskiej książki pt.: ''Kuchařství'', która z&nbsp;kolei była tłumaczeniem książki niemieckiej pt.: ''Küchenmeisterei''.
+
To sum up: not a&nbsp;single printed copy of the first cookbook printed in the Polish language has survived, but thanks to old print shop inventories, three surviving sheets and one complete manuscript copy, we do know that it existed. We also know that it was first published around 1536 in Cracow, that its title was either ''Kuchmistrzostwo'' (''Cooking Mastery'') or ''Kucharstwo'' (''Cookery'') and that it was a&nbsp;translation of the Czech ''Kuchařství'', which had been published a&nbsp;year earlier and which was itself a&nbsp;translation of the German ''Küchenmeisterei''.
  
A to znaczy, że najstarszą znaną drukowaną książką kucharską w&nbsp;języku polskim nie jest już ''Compendium ferculorum''. Nadal jednak można powiedzieć, iż jest to najstarsza taka książka, która zachowała się do dzisiaj w&nbsp;całości. A&nbsp;zarazem pierwsza wydana drukiem książka kucharska, która nie jest tłumaczeniem, ale została napisana oryginalnie po polsku.
+
And this, in turn, means that ''Compendium Ferculorum'' is not the earliest cookbook to be printed in the Polish language. But it’s still correct to say that it’s the oldest ''surviving'' printed Polish cookbook. And it’s also the first printed cookbook that was written ''originally'' in Polish rather than translated.
  
== Ugotujmy coś! ==
+
== Let’s Cook! ==
No dobrze, to jakie ciekawe przepisy możemy znaleźć w&nbsp;owym ''Kuchmistrzostwie''? Przepisy podzielone są na trzy, a&nbsp;właściwie na cztery rozdziały, z&nbsp;tym że czwarty rozdział nie jest jakoś wyraźnie oddzielony od trzeciego.  
+
Okay, so what interesting recipës can you find in that oldest Polish cookbook? The recipës are divided into three chapters, or actually even four, except that the fourth chapter isn’t visibly separated from the third.
  
W pierwszym, pod nagłówkiem: „O zwierzynie”, wypisano przepisy na dania mięsne. Jest tu sporo przepisów na kurę i&nbsp;inne ptaki (np. „ptacy, którzy bywają w&nbsp;cebuli przyprawiani, a&nbsp;w&nbsp;cieście tak mają być działani”), ale są też receptury mówiące, jak przyrządzić wołowinę („pieczenia wołowa po węgiersku”), wieprzowinę, zająca („zając w&nbsp;cebuli albo bez cebuli”) oraz różnego rodzaju dziczyznę, jak: kuropatwy, sarninę, jeleninę, „wieprzowinę dziką”, wspominaną już „zwierzynę bawołową albo żubrową”, a&nbsp;nawet… wiewiórki. Te ostatnie gotuje się tak:
+
The first chapter contains recipës for meat dishes. Many of these are for chicken and other birds (e.g., “birds seasoned with onions and encased in dough”), but there are also several recipës for beef (“roasted beef in the Hungarian style”), pork, hare (“hare with or without onions”), as well as various kinds of game, including: partridges, roe deer and red deer venison, wild boar, “buffalo or bison”, and even… squirrels. This is how you can cook the latter:
  
 
{{Cytat
 
{{Cytat
| Obłup je [ze skóry], a&nbsp;wewnątrz je wymyj czyście, a&nbsp;zestaw je w&nbsp;mięsnej polewce nie bardzo słonej, a&nbsp;gdy uwreją, uczyń na nie żółtą juchę albo czarną. Żółtą tak: przypiecz wątrobę wiewiórczą, a&nbsp;ususz grzanek dwie albo trzy z&nbsp;chleba rżanego, utłucz to w&nbsp;moździerzu, a&nbsp;rozpuść polewką mięsną i&nbsp;przecedź czyście. Daj [w] tę juchę wiewiórki, a&nbsp;ukorzeń [tj. przypraw] pieprzem, imbirem, muszkatowym kwiatem, a&nbsp;usmaż na nie jabłek jako na inną zwierzynę, daj na misę, a&nbsp;pamiętaj przysolić.
+
| Skin them and wash them clean inside, and cook them in meat broth, not too salty, and once they are cooked, make yellow or black sauce for them. To make the yellow sauce: roast squirrel livers and make two or three rye-bread toasts, grind them all up in a&nbsp;mortar, dissolve in meat broth and strain. Place the squirrels in the sauce and season with pepper, ginger, mace, then fry up some apples as you would for any other game, serve in a&nbsp;bowl and remember to salt.
 +
 
 +
And to make the black sauce: take prunes or fried sweet cherries, make toasts of white bread, place them all in a&nbsp;mixture of vinegar and water, and bring to boil, then strain clean through cloth, add the squirrels, bring to boil, season with pepper, ginger, cloves, and sprinkle some saffron on top.
 +
| oryg = Obłup je, a&nbsp;wewnątrz je wymyj czyście, a&nbsp;zestaw je w&nbsp;mięsnej polewce nie bardzo słonej, a&nbsp;gdy uwreją, uczyń na nie żółtą juchę albo czarną. Żółtą tak: przypiecz wątrobę wiewiórczą, a&nbsp;ususz grzanek dwie albo trzy z&nbsp;chleba rżanego, utłucz to w&nbsp;moździerzu, a&nbsp;rozpuść polewką mięsną i&nbsp;przecedź czyście. Daj [w] tę juchę wiewiórki, a&nbsp;ukorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, muszkatowym kwiatem, a&nbsp;usmaż na nie jabłek jako na inną zwierzynę, daj na misę, a&nbsp;pamiętaj przysolić.
  
Czarną zaś tak: weźmij śliwek albo trześni [tj. czereśni] smażonych, ususz grzanek z&nbsp;białego chleba, zmieszaj octu z&nbsp;wodą, a&nbsp;daj śliwki z&nbsp;grzankami tam, aby wewrzały, a&nbsp;przecedź czyście przez chustę, daj do wiewiórek, aby wrzały, okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, goździkami, a&nbsp;trochę szafranu daj na wierzch.  
+
Czarną zaś tak: weźmij śliwek albo trześni smażonych, ususz grzanek z&nbsp;białego chleba, zmieszaj octu z&nbsp;wodą, a&nbsp;daj śliwki z&nbsp;grzankami tam, aby wewrzały, a&nbsp;przecedź czyście przez chustę, daj do wiewiórek, aby wrzały, okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, goździkami, a&nbsp;trochę szafranu daj na wierzch.  
 
| źródło = {{Cyt  
 
| źródło = {{Cyt  
  | inni    = red. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa
+
  | inni    = ed. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa
 
  | tytuł    = Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako i&nbsp;ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca
 
  | tytuł    = Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako i&nbsp;ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
Line 218: Line 224:
 
  | rok      = 2021
 
  | rok      = 2021
 
  | strony  = 141
 
  | strony  = 141
  }}
+
  }}, own translation
| oryg = Veveříce takto mají strojeny býti: vytáhna je, vykuchej a&nbsp;vymej čistě a&nbsp;zastav je v hovězí jíše, nevelmi slané, a&nbsp;když uvrou, udělaj na ně žlutú jíchu, aneb chceš-li, černú jíchu. Žlutú jíchu takto máš dělati: odpec jatřičky, usuš topenku neb dvě z&nbsp;chleba, tluč to v moždíři a&nbsp;rozpusť jíchu hovězí a&nbsp;protáhni čistě a&nbsp;daj do té jíchy veveříce, okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, muškátovým květem, a&nbsp;usmaž na ně jablek, jako na jinú zvěřinu a&nbsp;daj na misu a&nbsp;pomni přisolovati.
+
| lang = Polish
 +
| oryg2 = Veveříce takto mají strojeny býti: vytáhna je, vykuchej a&nbsp;vymej čistě a&nbsp;zastav je v hovězí jíše, nevelmi slané, a&nbsp;když uvrou, udělaj na ně žlutú jíchu, aneb chceš-li, černú jíchu. Žlutú jíchu takto máš dělati: odpec jatřičky, usuš topenku neb dvě z&nbsp;chleba, tluč to v moždíři a&nbsp;rozpusť jíchu hovězí a&nbsp;protáhni čistě a&nbsp;daj do té jíchy veveříce, okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, muškátovým květem, a&nbsp;usmaž na ně jablek, jako na jinú zvěřinu a&nbsp;daj na misu a&nbsp;pomni přisolovati.
  
 
Černú jíchu takto na ně dělají: vezmi švestek, neb třešeň vařených, usuš topenku z&nbsp;režného chleba neb směs dvě s vodu s octem, dajž ty švestky s topenkami tam, ať rozevru a&nbsp;protáhni čistě skrze hartuch, dajž do ní veveříce, ať  sevřou, okořeň
 
Černú jíchu takto na ně dělají: vezmi švestek, neb třešeň vařených, usuš topenku z&nbsp;režného chleba neb směs dvě s vodu s octem, dajž ty švestky s topenkami tam, ať rozevru a&nbsp;protáhni čistě skrze hartuch, dajž do ní veveříce, ať  sevřou, okořeň
 
pepřem, hřebičky a&nbsp;zázvorem a&nbsp;trošku šafránem a&nbsp;daj svrchu smažená jablka.
 
pepřem, hřebičky a&nbsp;zázvorem a&nbsp;trošku šafránem a&nbsp;daj svrchu smažená jablka.
| źródło-oryg =  {{Cyt  
+
| źródło-oryg2 =  {{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko =  
 
  | nazwisko =  
 
  | imię    =  
 
  | imię    =  
Line 230: Line 237:
 
  | miejsce  = Staré Město pražské
 
  | miejsce  = Staré Město pražské
 
  | rok      = 1535
 
  | rok      = 1535
  }}; cyt. w: {{Cyt  
+
  }}; quoted in: {{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Zíbrt
 
  | nazwisko = Zíbrt
 
  | imię    = Čeněk  
 
  | imię    = Čeněk  
Line 239: Line 246:
 
  | rok      = 1927
 
  | rok      = 1927
 
  | strony  = 211
 
  | strony  = 211
  }} }}
+
  }}  
 +
| jęz2 = Czech }}
  
  
{{Video|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0USVxp477sE|szer=400|opis=Gotowanie wiewiórek w&nbsp;żółtej i&nbsp;czarnej jusze (po czesku)}}
+
{{Video|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0USVxp477sE|szer=400|opis=Preparation of squirrels in yellow and black sauces (in Czech)}}
Oba przepisy na wiewiórkę w&nbsp;ich czeskiej wersji – odtworzyli kilka lat temu Czesi: popularyzator gastronomii Roman Vaněk i&nbsp;szef kuchni Pavel Mencl, z&nbsp;pomocą historyka Martina Franca, w&nbsp;programie telewizyjnym z&nbsp;serii ''Zmlsané dějiny'' (''Łakoma historia''). Pewną trudność nastręczyło im zdobycie podstawowego surowca, gdyż rodzime, rude wiewiórki są w&nbsp;Europie pod ochroną; zamiast nich trzeba było sprowadzić z&nbsp;Anglii wiewiórki szare, które masowo odławia się tam jako gatunek inwazyjny. Efekt końcowy był dla rekonstruktorów całkiem zadowalający, tylko kolory sosów wyszły nieco inne, niż można było się spodziewać: zamiast żółtego i&nbsp;czarnego – różne odcienie brązu. Widać, że barwy potraw były postrzegane nieco inaczej w&nbsp;czasach, gdy nie dodawano do żywności sztucznych barwników.  
+
Both recipës for squirrels – in their Czech-language version were tried out by a&nbsp;group of Czechs: food writer Roman Vaněk{{czyt|Roman Vaněk}} and chef Pavel Mencl,{{czyt|Pavel Mencl}} with the help of historian Martin Franc,{{czyt|Martin Franc}} in an episode of the Czech-language TV show ''Zmlsané dějiny''{{czyt|Zmlsané dějiny}} (''Hungry for History''). Obtaining the principal raw material proved to be difficult as red squirrels, which are native to Europe, are protected by law. They ended up importing some grey squirrels from Britain, where they are trapped and killed as an invasive species. The culinary reënactors were quite satisfied with the end result, except that the colours weren’t as bright as they had expected: rather than yellow and black, the sauces came out in different shades of brown. But this only shows that colours were perceived differently by people back when no artificial food colouring was available.
  
No ale miało być dla początkujących, więc szukamy dalej.  
+
Oh, but we wanted a&nbsp;recipë for beginners, so let’s keep on looking.
  
Następny rozdział jest „o&nbsp;rybach”, czyli o&nbsp;żywności typowo postnej. Jest tu wiele przepisów na karpia, szczupaka, sztokfisz (czyli suszonego dorsza), a&nbsp;także na łososia, węgorza, piskorze, minogi oraz raki. Sporo miejsca zajmują tu przepisy na różne galarety, a&nbsp;szczególnie wykwintny jest tu pierwszy przepis, na „kisielicę z&nbsp;karpiów czterech barw”, czyli na karpia w&nbsp;kwaśnej galarecie z&nbsp;żuru, w&nbsp;czterech kolorach: czarnym (barwionym krwią), brunatnym (cynamonem), zielonym (natką pietruszki) oraz białym (śmietaną). To też raczej dla kucharzy bardziej zaawansowanych.
+
The next chapter is devoted to fish dishes, that is, something to eat during Catholic fasting days, such as Friday. Here you will find many recipës for carp, pike, stockfish (dried cod), as well as salmon, eel, weatherfish, lampreys and crayfish. A&nbsp;large portion of the chapter covers various kinds of aspic dishes. One particularly elaborate recipë is for carp in  ''kisielica'',{{czyt|kisielica}} or a&nbsp;kind of jelly made from fermented rye flour and divided into four parts, each in a&nbsp;different colour: black (with blood), brown (with cinnamon), green (with parsley) or white (with cream).  
  
Przepis na zwierzynę bawołową albo żubrową (tylko że z wołowiną zamiast grubej dziczyzny), a także na różne rodzaje kisielic, odtworzył Maciej Nowicki, szef kuchni Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w Wilanowie, z pomocą prof. Dumanowskiego, w [https://vod.tvp.pl/programy,88/historia-kuchni-polskiej-odcinki,1235711/odcinek-4,S01E04,1273194 czwartym odcinku serialu ''Historia kuchni polskiej'',] który poświęcony jest właśnie ''Kuchmistrzostwu''.  
+
The recipës for buffalo or bison (with beef substituted for the game), as well as for various kinds of ''kisielica'', were tried out by Maciej Nowicki, chef at the Wilanów Royal Palace in Warsaw, aided by Prof. Dumanowski, in the [https://vod.tvp.pl/programy,88/historia-kuchni-polskiej-odcinki,1235711/odcinek-4,S01E04,1273194 fourth episode] of the Polish-language TV show ''Historia kuchni polskiej''{{czyt|Historia kuchni polskiej}} (''History of Polish Cuisine''), which was all about the oldest Polish cookbook. But these recipës, too, are definitely for more advanced cooks.
  
Trzeci rozdział to „karmie sobotniej wypisanie”. Ów sobotni pokarm to potrawy przewidziane na post sobotni, a&nbsp;więc łagodniejszy od piątkowego i&nbsp;dopuszczający spożywanie nabiału. W&nbsp;tym rozdziale dominują przepisy na rozmaite kluski i&nbsp;kasze oraz farmuszki, czyli zupy zagęszczane żółtkami. Na końcu, w&nbsp;niewydzielonym wyraźnie czwartym rozdziale, są jeszcze – częściowo już nam znane – przepisy na ocet. Zostańmy jednak przy kaszach. Słowo „kasza” miała dawniej nieco szersze znaczenie niż dzisiaj i&nbsp;obejmowało wszystkie potrawy o&nbsp;konsystencji kaszy. Można było na przykład podsmażyć jabłka, przetrzeć je przez sito i&nbsp;to była kasza z&nbsp;jabłek.  
+
The third chapter has recipës for “Saturday food”, which means food allowed by the Catholic Church on the milder fasting days, such as Saturday. The milder version of fasting still excluded the meat of land-dwelling animals, but allowed the consumption of dairy and eggs. This chapter abounds in recipës for various kinds of dumplings, porridges and yolk-thickened soups. At the very end, in an implicit fourth chapter, we can find the vinegar recipës, some of which we already know from the two surviving sheets. But let’s stick to the porridges. The Polish word for “porridge”, ''“kasza”'',{{czyt|kasza}} had a&nbsp;broader meaning in the past than it has today and referred not only to boiled cereal grains, but to any kind of food with porridge-like consistency. For example, you could chop some apples into small chunks, fry them up and then pass through a&nbsp;sieve to obtain what was referred to as “apple porridge”.
  
Moją uwagę zwrócił jednak przepis na „kaszę z&nbsp;ryżu”, czyli nic innego niż ryż ze śmietaną, cukrem i&nbsp;cynamonem.  
+
One recipë that caught my attention is for “rice porridge”.
  
 
{{ Cytat
 
{{ Cytat
| Kaszę z&nbsp;ryżu tak działaj: Weźmij ryżu, coć się widzi, a&nbsp;czystej śmietany, uwarz ją pierwej, a&nbsp;potym ten ryż wypłucz, a&nbsp;kładź do tej śmietany, a&nbsp;omaścisz masłem i&nbsp;mieszaj, aby się nie zewrzało, tedy będzie czysta [tj. nieprzypalona] kasza, a&nbsp;potem, gdy dasz na misę, posyp cynamonem i&nbsp;cukrem.
+
| To make rice porridge: take as much rice as you want and some clean cream, cook it first and then rinse the rice, and place it in the cream, add some butter and mix, so it doesn’t burn and you have clean porridge, and then, when you serve it in a&nbsp;bowl, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.
 +
| oryg = Kaszę z&nbsp;ryżu tak działaj: Weźmij ryżu, coć się widzi, a&nbsp;czystej śmietany, uwarz ją pierwej, a&nbsp;potym ten ryż wypłucz, a&nbsp;kładź do tej śmietany, a&nbsp;omaścisz masłem i&nbsp;mieszaj, aby się nie zewrzało, tedy będzie czysta [tj. nieprzypalona] kasza, a&nbsp;potem, gdy dasz na misę, posyp cynamonem i&nbsp;cukrem.
 
| źródło =  {{Cyt  
 
| źródło =  {{Cyt  
  | inni    = red. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa
+
  | inni    = ed. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa
 
  | tytuł    = Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako i&nbsp;ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca
 
  | tytuł    = Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako i&nbsp;ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
Line 264: Line 273:
 
  | rok      = 2021
 
  | rok      = 2021
 
  | strony  = 168
 
  | strony  = 168
  }}
+
  }}, own translation
| oryg = Kaše z&nbsp;rajže velmi dobrá: Vezmi rajže, coť se zdá, a&nbsp;čisté smetany a&nbsp;svař tu smetanu prvé, potom tu rajži vypeř, a&nbsp;vlož do té smetany, a&nbsp;omasť máslem a&nbsp;míšej, ať se nesevře, a&nbsp;čistá bude kaše. A&nbsp;potom, když dáváš na mísu, pospi skořicí, cukrem a&nbsp;jez.
+
| jęz = Polish
| źródło-oryg =  {{Cyt  
+
| oryg2 = Kaše z&nbsp;rajže velmi dobrá: Vezmi rajže, coť se zdá, a&nbsp;čisté smetany a&nbsp;svař tu smetanu prvé, potom tu rajži vypeř, a&nbsp;vlož do té smetany, a&nbsp;omasť máslem a&nbsp;míšej, ať se nesevře, a&nbsp;čistá bude kaše. A&nbsp;potom, když dáváš na mísu, pospi skořicí, cukrem a&nbsp;jez.
 +
| źródło-oryg2 =  {{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko =  
 
  | nazwisko =  
 
  | imię    =  
 
  | imię    =  
Line 273: Line 283:
 
  | miejsce  = Staré Město pražské
 
  | miejsce  = Staré Město pražské
 
  | rok      = 1535
 
  | rok      = 1535
  }}; cyt. w: {{Cyt  
+
  }}; quoted in: {{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Zíbrt
 
  | nazwisko = Zíbrt
 
  | imię    = Čeněk  
 
  | imię    = Čeněk  
Line 282: Line 292:
 
  | rok      = 1927
 
  | rok      = 1927
 
  | strony  = 231
 
  | strony  = 231
  }} }}
+
  }}  
 +
| jęz2 = Czech }}
  
Myślę, że prawie każdy Polak przynajmniej raz w&nbsp;życiu jadł coś podobnego. Główna różnica w&nbsp;samej recepturze jest taka, że dziś ugotowalibyśmy ryż na mleku, a&nbsp;dopiero potem polali śmietaną, natomiast tutaj ryż gotuje się już w&nbsp;śmietanie. Istotniejsza różnica jest w&nbsp;tym, jak ten przysmak był i&nbsp;jest postrzegany. Dla nas jest to proste danie, wręcz banalne, choć możemy myśleć o&nbsp;nim z&nbsp;nostalgią jako o&nbsp;słodkim smaku dzieciństwa. W&nbsp;XVI&nbsp;w. był to szczyt luksusu. Ryż, cukier i&nbsp;cynamon trzeba było sprowadzać z&nbsp;zamorskich krain za grube pieniądze. Masło i&nbsp;śmietanę pozyskiwano wprawdzie lokalnie, lecz były to najdroższe produkty mleczarskie. W&nbsp;kuchni, w&nbsp;której szczególną rolę odgrywały kolory, potrawy białe ceniono szczególnie wysoko – stąd dbałość, by ryżu przypadkiem nie przypalić. Krótko mówiąc – była to kasza na bogato.  
+
I suppose that to any Polish person this dish would immediately bring back some childhood memories. Rice with cream, sugar and cinnamon was a&nbsp;typical children’s food when I was growing up. The only difference between modern and historical versions is that in our times, you would cook the rice in milk and only then mix it with cream, rather than cook the rice already in the cream. A&nbsp;more important distinction is in the way this dish was and is perceived. In our times, it would be seen as a&nbsp;rather simple dish, tinged perhaps with a&nbsp;bit of nostalgia for some people. But in the 16th century, it would have been the pinnacle of luxury. Rice, sugar and cinnamon were all considered exotic spices that were imported from overseas for a&nbsp;lot of money. Butter and cream were sourced locally, but they were the most expensive of all dairy products. What’s more, in a&nbsp;cuisine where colours played an especially important role, white was prized above all other colours – hence the warning not to burn the rice. All in all, it was definitely a&nbsp;rich man’s porridge.
  
 
<gallery mode=packed heights="200px">
 
<gallery mode=packed heights="200px">
File:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 2.jpg | Bierzemy ryż, śmietanę, cukier i&nbsp;cynamon.
+
File:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 2.jpg | Take rice, cream, sugar and cinnamon.
File:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 3.jpg | Gotujemy ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie…
+
File:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 3.jpg | Cook the rice with sugar in cream…
File:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 4.jpg | Aż zgęstnieje.
+
File:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 4.jpg | Until it thickens.
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
  
[[File:{{#setmainimage:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 6.jpg}}|thumb|Posypujemy cynamonem i&nbsp;gotowe.]]
+
[[File:{{#setmainimage:Ryż w&nbsp;śmietanie 6.jpg}}|thumb|Sprinkle with cinnamon – and it’s ready!]]
Do wykonania tego przepisu użyłem śmietany 30%, którą jednak rozrzedziłem nieco mlekiem. Cukru – trzcinowego, bo buraczanego w&nbsp;XVI&nbsp;w. nie znano – dodałem już na etapie gotowania, żeby dobrze się rozpuścił. Na koniec posypałem ryż sproszkowanym cynamonem i&nbsp;gotowe! Smakowało przyjemnie jak ryż ze śmietaną, cukrem i&nbsp;cynamonem.
+
For my reconstruction, I used 30%-fat cream, which I diluted a&nbsp;little with milk. I added cane sugar (beet sugar was unknown in the 16th century) already while cooking, to let it dissolve well in the cream. At the end, I only had to sprinkle the porridge with powdered cinnamon and that’s it! I did like the flavour it tasted just the way I expected rice with cream, sugar and cinnamon to taste.
  
A gdyby ktoś chciał sobie wybrać jakieś inne przepisy z najstarszej polskiej książki kucharskiej, to mam dobrą wiadomość: cały ''Zbiór dla kuchmistrza'' został w 2011 r. naukowo zredagowany przez państwa Bułatową i Dumanowskiego, i [https://sklep.wilanow-palac.pl/zbior-dla-kuchmistrza-tak-potraw-jako-ciast-robienia-wypisany-roku-1757-dnia-24-lipca-p-641.html wydany przez Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w Wilanowie.] W ten sposób po prawie półtysiącleciu od pierwszego wydania receptury z ''Kuchmistrzostwa'' ponownie ukazały się drukiem.
+
If you can read Polish and would like to try out some other recipës form the oldest cookbook in that language, then I’ve got some good news: the entire manuscript, edited by Bulatova and Dumanowski, was [https://sklep.wilanow-palac.pl/zbior-dla-kuchmistrza-tak-potraw-jako-ciast-robienia-wypisany-roku-1757-dnia-24-lipca-p-641.html published in 2011 by Wilanów Palace Museum in Warsaw.] This way, almost half a&nbsp;millennium after the first publication of ''Kuchmistrzostwo'', its recipës were published in print once again.
  
 
== Timeline of Early Printed Cookbooks ==
 
== Timeline of Early Printed Cookbooks ==
Na koniec, w charakterze podsumowania: mała tabelka, mająca pokazać, kiedy i&nbsp;w&nbsp;jakiej kolejności ukazywały się pierwsze drukowane książki kucharskie w&nbsp;poszczególnych językach europejskich do połowy XVI&nbsp;w. na tle wybranych wydarzeń z&nbsp;historii ogólnej.  
+
And to summarize what I wrote above, here’s a&nbsp;little table to show you the sequence in which the first cookbooks printed in given languages were originally published (up to the middle of the 16th century) in relation to selected events from universal history.
 
{{clear}}
 
{{clear}}
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
{| class="wikitable"
! style="width: 43%;" | Pierwsze drukowane książki kucharskie w&nbsp;danym języku
+
! style="width: 43%;" | First cookbooks printed in given languages
! style="width: 14%; text-align: center"  | Dekada
+
! style="width: 14%; text-align: center;"  | Decade
! cstyle="width: 43%;"  | Wybrane wydarzenia w&nbsp;Europie dla orientacji
+
! cstyle="width: 43%;"  | Selected events in Europe, for guidance
 
|-
 
|-
 
|
 
|
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center" | 1451–1460
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;" | 1451–1460
 
[[File:Gutenberg drukuje.jpg|100x150px|Johannes Gutenberg]]
 
[[File:Gutenberg drukuje.jpg|100x150px|Johannes Gutenberg]]
 
| valign=top style="text-align: left;" |
 
| valign=top style="text-align: left;" |
• 1453, Konstantynopol Turcy osmańscy pod wodzą sułtana Mehmeda&nbsp;II zdobywają stolicę wschodniego Cesarstwa Rzymskiego.</br>
+
• 1453, Contantinople (Istanbul) Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed&nbsp;II capture the capital city of the eastern Roman Empire</br>
• 1455, Moguncja – Johannes Gutenberg (<big>☚</big>) drukuje pierwszą książkę (Biblię) przy użyciu ruchomej czcionki.
+
• 1455, Mayence (Mainz) – Johannes Gutenberg (<big>☚</big>) prints the first book (a&nbsp;Bible) using a&nbsp;movable-type printing press.
 
|-
 
|-
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |  
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |  
• Bartolomeo Platina (<big>☛</big>), '''''De honesta voluptate et valetudine''''', Rzym ok. 1470 – po&nbsp;'''łacinie'''.
+
• Bartolomeo Platina (<big>☛</big>), '''''De honesta voluptate et valetudine''''', Rome ca. 1470 – in '''Latin'''.
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1461–1470
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1461–1470
[[File:Platina 1.jpg|100x150px|Bartolomeo Sacchi zwany Platiną]]
+
[[File:Platina 1.jpg|100x150px|Bartolomeo Sacchi aka Platina]]
 
| style="text-align: left;" |  
 
| style="text-align: left;" |  
• 1461, Francja – François Villon sporządza swój wierszowany testament.</br>
+
• 1461, France – François Villon writes his testament in verse.</br>
• 1466, Toruń – król polski Kazimierz Jagiellończyk i&nbsp;wielki mistrz krzyżacki Ludwig von Erlichshausen podpisują traktat pokojowy kończący wojnę trzynastoletnią i&nbsp;oddający Polsce dostęp do morza.
+
• 1466, Thorn (Toruń) King Casimir Jagiellon of Poland and Ludwig von Erlichshausen, Grand Master of the Teutonic Order of Knights, sign a&nbsp;peace treaty ending the Thirteen-Year War and restoring Poland’s access to the Baltic Sea.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|
 
|
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1471–1480
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1471–1480
[[File:MemlingJudgmentCentre.jpg|100x150px|Hans Memling, Sąd Ostateczny, panel środkowy]]
+
[[File:MemlingJudgmentCentre.jpg|100x150px|Hans Memling, Last Judgement, middle panel]]
 
| valign=top style="text-align: left;" |
 
| valign=top style="text-align: left;" |
• 1473, Morze Północne w&nbsp;ramach wojny angielsko-hanzeatyckiej gdańscy korsarze zdobywają łup w&nbsp;postaci tryptyku ''Sąd Ostateczny'' (<big>☚</big>) pędzla Hansa Memlinga.</br>
+
• 1473, North Sea amidst the Anglo-Hanseatic War, privateers from Danzig (Gdańsk) loot the ''Last Judgement'' triptych (<big>☚</big>) by Hans Memling (now still in Gdańsk).</br>
• 1473, Kraków – Kasper Straube drukuje ścienny kalendarz astrologiczny na rok 1474, najstarszy znany tekst wydrukowany w&nbsp;Polsce.
+
• 1473, Cracow (Kraków) – Kasper Straube prints an astrological wall calendar for the year 1474, the first text known to be printed in Poland.
 
|-
 
|-
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |  
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |  
• Peter Wagner, '''''Küchenmeisterei''''', Norymberga 1485 – po&nbsp;'''niemiecku'''.</br>
+
• Peter Wagner, '''''Küchenmeisterei''''', Nuremberg 1485 – in '''German'''.</br>
• '''''Le Viandier''','' Paryż 1486 – po&nbsp;'''francusku'''.</br>
+
• '''''Le Viandier''','' Paris 1486 – in '''French'''.</br>
• Bartolomeo Platina, '''''De la honesta voluptate e valetudine''''', Wenecja 1487 – po&nbsp;'''włosku''' (przekład z&nbsp;łaciny).
+
• Bartolomeo Platina, '''''De la honesta voluptate e valetudine''''', Venice 1487 – in '''Italian''' (translated from Latin).
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1481–1490
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1481–1490
 
[[File:Dama z&nbsp;gronostajem 1.jpg|100x150px|Leonardo da Vinci, Dama z&nbsp;gronostajem]]
 
[[File:Dama z&nbsp;gronostajem 1.jpg|100x150px|Leonardo da Vinci, Dama z&nbsp;gronostajem]]
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |
• 1489, Kraków – Veit Stoß kończy pracę nad głównym ołtarzem kościoła mariackiego, arcydziełem rzeźby gotyckiej.</br>
+
• 1489, Cracow – Veit Stoß finishes his work on St. Mary’s altarpiece, a&nbsp;masterpiece of Gothic sculpture (still in Cracow).</br>
• 1489, Mediolan – Leonardo da Vinci maluje ''Damę z&nbsp;gronostajem'' (<big>☚</big>), arcydzieło malarstwa renesansowego.
+
• 1489, Milan – Leonardo da Vinci paints ''Lady with an Ermine'' (<big>☚</big>), a&nbsp;masterpiece of Renaissance painting (now in Cracow).
 
|-
 
|-
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |
• Richard Pynson, '''''The Boke of Cokery''''', Londyn 1500 – po&nbsp;'''angielsku'''.
+
• Richard Pynson, '''''The Boke of Cokery''''', London 1500 – in '''English'''.
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1491–1500
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1491–1500
 
[[File:Kolumb 1.jpg|100x150px|Cristoffa Colombo]]
 
[[File:Kolumb 1.jpg|100x150px|Cristoffa Colombo]]
 
| valign=top style="text-align: left;" |
 
| valign=top style="text-align: left;" |
• 1492 – Cristoffa Colombo (<big>☚</big>) płynie pod banderą hiszpańską szukać zachodniej drogi do Indii i&nbsp;trafia na Karaiby.
+
• 1492 – Cristoffa Colombo (<big>☚</big>) sails under a&nbsp;Spanish flag in search of a&nbsp;western route to India, ending up in the Caribbean.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|
 
|
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1501–1510
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1501–1510
[[File:Aleksander Jagiellończyk 1.jpg|100x149px|Aleksander Jagiellończyk]]
+
[[File:Aleksander Jagiellończyk 1.jpg|100x149px|Alexander Jagiellon]]
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
• 1505, Radom – król polski Aleksander Jagiellończyk (<big>☚</big>) podpisuje konstytucję ''Nihil novi'', ustanawiając w&nbsp;Polsce monarchię parlamentarną.  
+
• 1505, Radom – King Alexander Jagiellon of Poland (<big>☚</big>) signs the ''Nihil Novi'' act, establishing parliamentary monarchy in his kingdom.  
 
|-
 
|-
 
| style="text-align: left;" |  
 
| style="text-align: left;" |  
• Thomas van der Noot, '''''Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen''''', Bruksela 1514 – po&nbsp;'''holendersku'''.</br>
+
• Thomas van der Noot, '''''Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen''''', Brussels 1514 – in '''Dutch'''.</br>
• Robert de Nola, '''''Llibre del coch''''' (<big>☛</big>), Barcelona 1520 – po&nbsp;'''katalońsku'''.
+
• Robert de Nola, '''''Llibre del coch''''' (<big>☛</big>), Barcelona 1520 – in '''Catalan'''.
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1511–1520
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1511–1520
[[File:Libre de doctrina pera ben Seruir, de Tallar, y del Art de Coch 1520 tp.jpg|100x150px|Llibre del coch, strona tytułowa]]
+
[[File:Libre de doctrina pera ben Seruir, de Tallar, y del Art de Coch 1520 tp.jpg|100x150px|Llibre del coch, title page]]
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |
• 1517, Wittenberga – Martin Luther ogłasza 95 tez przeciwko sprzedaży odpustów, zapoczątkowując reformację protestancką.</br>
+
• 1517, Wittenberg – Martin Luther publishes his 95 theses against the sale of indulgencies, kicking off the Protestant Reformation.</br>
• 1518, Kraków król polski Zygmunt&nbsp;I Jagiellończyk poślubia mediolańską księżniczkę Bonę Sforzę.
+
• 1518, Cracow King Sigismund I Jagiellon of Poland marries the Milanese princess Bona Sforza.
 
|-
 
|-
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
• Robert de Nola, '''''Libro de guisados''''', Toledo 1525 – po&nbsp;'''hiszpańsku''' (przekład z&nbsp;katalońskiego).
+
• Robert de Nola, '''''Libro de guisados''''', Toledo 1525 – in '''Spanish''' (translated from Catalan).
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1521–1530
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1521–1530
 
[[File:Kopernik 1.jpg|100x150px|Niklas Koppernigk]]
 
[[File:Kopernik 1.jpg|100x150px|Niklas Koppernigk]]
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
• 1522, Grudziądz – kanonik warmiński Niklas Koppernigk (<big>☚</big>) wygłasza na sejmiku Prus Królewskich przemówienie na temat polityki monetarnej.</br>
+
• 1522, Graudenz (Grudziądz) – Niklas Koppernigk aka Copernicus (<big>☚</big>), Canon of Ermland, makes a&nbsp;speech about monetary policy at the dietine (regional assembly) of Royal Prussia.</br>
• 1526, Mohacz Ludwik Jagiellończyk, król czeski, węgierski i&nbsp;chorwacki, ginie w&nbsp;bitwie z&nbsp;Turkami osmańskimi dowodzonymi przez sułtana Sulejmana Wspaniałego.
+
• 1526, Mohács King Louis Jagiellon of Bohemia, Hungary and Croatia dies in a&nbsp;battle against Ottoman Turks led by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.
 
|-
 
|-
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |  
 
| valign=bottom style="text-align: left;" |  
• Pavel Severýn, '''''Kuchařství''''', Praga 1535 – po&nbsp;'''czesku''' (przekład z&nbsp;niemieckiego).</br>
+
• Pavel Severýn, '''''Kuchařství''''', Prague 1535 – in '''Czech''' (translated from German).</br>
• '''''Kuchmistrzostwo''''', Kraków 1536 – po&nbsp;'''polsku''' (przekład z&nbsp;czeskiego).
+
• '''''Kuchmistrzostwo''''', Cracow 1536 – in '''Polish''' (translated from Czech).
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center"|1531–1540
+
| valign=top style="height: 100px; text-align: center;"|1531–1540
[[File:Henryk VIII.jpg|100x150px|Henryk VIII]]
+
[[File:Henryk VIII.jpg|100x150px|Henry VIII]]
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
 
| style="text-align: left;" |
• 1534, Londyn król Henryk&nbsp;VIII (<big>☚</big>) zostaje głową Kościoła w&nbsp;Anglii.
+
• 1534, London King Henry&nbsp;VIII (<big>☚</big>) becomes the head of the Church of England.
 
|}
 
|}
  
Line 381: Line 392:
 
*  {{Cyt  
 
*  {{Cyt  
 
  | tytuł    = [Kuchmistrzostwo]
 
  | tytuł    = [Kuchmistrzostwo]
  | miejsce  = Kraków
+
  | miejsce  = Cracow
  | rok      = ok. 1540
+
  | rok      = ca.&nbsp;1540
 
  }}
 
  }}
 
** {{Cyt  
 
** {{Cyt  
  | tytuł    = zachowany fragment (przepisy na ocet)
+
  | tytuł    = surviving fragment (recipës for vinegar)
 
  | url      = http://mbc.cyfrowemazowsze.pl/dlibra/docmetadata?id=65559
 
  | url      = http://mbc.cyfrowemazowsze.pl/dlibra/docmetadata?id=65559
  }}, Biblioteka Publiczna m.st. Warszawy – Biblioteka Główna Województwa Mazowieckiego, sygn. XVI.O.140
+
  }}, Warsaw Public Library, ID number: XVI.O.140
 
** {{Cyt  
 
** {{Cyt  
  | tytuł    = zachowany fragment (przepisy na dania mięsne)
+
  | tytuł    = surviving fragment (recipës for meat dishes)
 
  | url      = https://jbc.bj.uj.edu.pl/dlibra/publication/308470/edition/295226?
 
  | url      = https://jbc.bj.uj.edu.pl/dlibra/publication/308470/edition/295226?
  }}, Biblioteka Jagiellońska, Dział Starodruków, sygn. Cim 0.913
+
  }}, Jagiellonian Library, Old Prints Department, ID number: Cim 0.913
 
* {{Cyt  
 
* {{Cyt  
 
  | nazwisko = Benis
 
  | nazwisko = Benis
Line 479: Line 490:
 
   | nazwisko r      = Piekarski  
 
   | nazwisko r      = Piekarski  
 
   | imię r          = Kazimierz
 
   | imię r          = Kazimierz
   | rozdział        = Miscellanea Bibliograficzne: „Kuchmistrzostwo" Macieja Szarffenberga
+
   | rozdział        = Miscellanea Bibliograficzne: „Kuchmistrzostwo” Macieja Szarffenberga
 
   | adres rozdziału = https://cybra.lodz.pl/Content/6228/Przeglad_bibljoteczny_1930_R.4.pdf#%5B%7B%22num%22%3A455%2C%22gen%22%3A0%7D%2C%7B%22name%22%3A%22Fit%22%7D%5D
 
   | adres rozdziału = https://cybra.lodz.pl/Content/6228/Przeglad_bibljoteczny_1930_R.4.pdf#%5B%7B%22num%22%3A455%2C%22gen%22%3A0%7D%2C%7B%22name%22%3A%22Fit%22%7D%5D
 
  | wydawca  = Wydawnictwo Związku Bibljotekarzy Polskich
 
  | wydawca  = Wydawnictwo Związku Bibljotekarzy Polskich
Line 526: Line 537:
 
  }}
 
  }}
 
* {{Cyt  
 
* {{Cyt  
  | inni    = red. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa
+
  | inni    = ed. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa
 
  | tytuł    = Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca
 
  | tytuł    = Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
 
  | wydawca  = Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w&nbsp;Wilanowie
Line 551: Line 562:
 
  }}
 
  }}
  
{{Nawigacja|poprz=Co się święci?}}
+
{{Nawigacja|poprz=Blessed Be the Food}}
  
 
[[Category:Artur Benis]]
 
[[Category:Artur Benis]]
[[Category:Switłana Bułatowa]]
+
[[Category:Svitlana Bulatova]]
 
[[Category:Martin do Como]]
 
[[Category:Martin do Como]]
 
[[Category:Stanisław Czerniecki]]
 
[[Category:Stanisław Czerniecki]]
 
[[Category:Jarosław Dumanowski]]
 
[[Category:Jarosław Dumanowski]]
[[Category:Galen z Pergamonu]]
+
[[Category:Galen of Pergamon]]
 
[[Category:Kazimierz Piekarski]]
 
[[Category:Kazimierz Piekarski]]
 
[[Category:Bartolomeo Platina]]
 
[[Category:Bartolomeo Platina]]
Line 580: Line 591:
 
[[Category:20th century]]
 
[[Category:20th century]]
 
[[Category:21st century]]
 
[[Category:21st century]]
[[Category:Recipes]]
+
[[Category:Recipës]]
  
 
[[pl:Kuchnia jeszcze bardziej staropolska dla zupełnie początkujących]]
 
[[pl:Kuchnia jeszcze bardziej staropolska dla zupełnie początkujących]]

Latest revision as of 10:53, 7 June 2024

I once wrote here about old Polish recipës that were both extremely easy to cook and surprisingly familiar to our own times, which made them perfect for people who were only starting to try their hand at historical culinary reënactment. We could see how a recipë’s simplicity could also mean its durability; scrambled eggs, for example, are still prepared in much the same way as they were two hundred, four hundred or one thousand years ago.

I took the recipës from Compendium Ferculorum (A Collection of Dishes) by Stanisław Czerniecki,🔊 first published in 1682. I wrote then that it was the oldest cookbook ever printed in Polish. Well, that’s no longer true. Polish and Ukrainian historians have recently confirmed that an even older Polish-language cookery book was published a century and a half before Compendium Ferculorum. Not a single volume of that older book has survived to our times, but now we know for sure that it did exist. Some clues about its possible existence in the past had been know earlier, but as the surviving fragments could be suspected of being some 19th-century hoaxes, there was no certainty. Until now. So let’s follow the fascinating history of this new oldest Polish printed cookbook and how it was rediscovered. And then, let’s pick a recipë out of it to try out – one for beginners, of course.

Cookery Bookery

A Babylonian cookery tablet dated to ca. 1900–1600 BCE, containing recipës for 25 different kinds of stew

Cookbooks are one of the oldest literary genres in the world. The earliest known culinary recipës were written down in cuneiform script on clay tablets, in Babylonia, around the 19th century BCE.[1] And even these were most likely copied from even older tablets, now lost to time. Because the thing with recipës is that they’re much more likely to be copied than written from scratch. You can even see it in the Polish word for “recipë”, “przepis”,🔊 which literally means “something that is rewritten”. Oftentimes, the copyist would add something to the recipë, or perhaps makes some abridgements, redactions or modifications – thus allowing the recipë to evolve. In pre-Internet times, culinary recipës were probably some of the best examples of memes, or units of cultural evolution.[2]

For this reason, when it comes to old cookbooks, it’s difficult to even speak of authorship in any meaningful way. Even if you can see somebody’s name on the title page, you can’t be really sure whether it’s the name of the original author or perhaps of a translator, editor, copyist or publisher. Or maybe of someone who was a little bit of all the above. For the sake of simplicity, I will refer to such a person as “the author”, but keep in mind that they need not necessarily be the actual content creator as understood by modern copyright laws. Besides, even the idea of copyright didn’t exist before the 19th century. Before that, people would just go and rewrite or reprint books (culinary or any other) without asking anyone for permission. They would sometimes indicate the original author’s name in the copy, but sometimes not. The very idea of authenticity didn’t exist either, so a copy wasn’t seen as something inferior, but rather as a new, maybe even better version of the original thing. According to Galen of Pergamon (of whom I wrote before), the famous Library of Alexandria was able to grow so big thanks to a policy of sending royal customs officers to each ship which called at the local port, in order to gather any scroll of papyrus or parchment they could find and take it for scribes to make copies of. Then, they would give the shining new copies to the ship’s captain, while the library would contend itself with the timeworn originals.[3] And that was considered progress, not intellectual property theft!

Pope Sixtus IV naming Bartolomeo Platina, author of the world’s first printed cookbook, Prefect of the Vatican Library
By Melozzo da Forli (ca. 1477)

Naturally, copying books by hand was labour-intensive and, therefore, costly (even despite relatively low labour costs in the past). Besides, few people could read anyway, so cookbooks (just like any books for that matter) were a rare luxury. This began to change once Johannes Gutenberg🔊 invented the movable-type printing press. He used his invention to publish the first printed book (a Bible, obviously) in 1455. It was only 15 years later in Rome that the first ever cookbook was published in print. It was De honesta voluptate et valetudine (Of Honest Pleasure and Good Health) by Bartolomeo Sacchi🔊 (1421–1481), better known as Platina, who served as a papal secretary and librarian. In fact, Platina copied most of the recipës from Martin do Como’s handwritten Libro de arte coquinaria (Book of Culinary Arts). It took another 15 years for the first cookbook printed in a vernacular language to come out, namely the German Küchenmeisterei🔊 published by Peter Wagner.🔊 The 15th century also saw the first printed cookbooks in French, Italian and English, and the first half of the 16th century, in Dutch, Catalan, Spanish and Czech. The latter book, entitled Kuchařstvi🔊 and published by Pavel Severýn🔊 in 1535, in Prague, was a translation of the aforementioned German text. Both titles can be translated as Cooking Mastery.

And how long did one have to wait for the first cookbook printed in Polish?

A Groundbreaking Discovery

One of the surviving pages of Kuchmistrzostwo with various recipës for vinegar, currently owned by the Warsaw Public Library (ID number: XVI.O.140)

The way historians often make their most interesting discoveries is by dismantling the covers of old books. This is because bookbinders in the past frequently strengthened the covers by gluing together pages torn from even older tomes. Luckily for us, the very first cookbook printed in Polish was among the many books to have fallen victim to this kind of recycling.

In 1891, Zygmunt Wolski🔊 (1862–1931), an apprentice librarian at the Krasiński Library in Warsaw, walked into Cezary Wilanowski’s🔊 (1846–1893) second-hand bookshop, where he found a folder containing four loose sheets of paper that had been removed from an old book cover. The cover bore no title, but it did bear the year of publication: 1538. The four sheets which were reused to strengthen the cover came from three different printed books. Two of the sheets were covered with culinary recipës – all for different kinds of vinegar, as it happened. Wolski carefully examined the watermarks on the paper, the typeface and the language used in the recipës, and concluded that they must have been printed in the first half of the 16th century.[4]

Wolski found the sheets only a year after Artur Benis🔊 (1865–1932), a historian at the Jagiellonian University in Cracow who was busy researching the history of book printing in Poland, had published his work on inventories of Cracow’s mid-16th-century print shops. Back in the 16th century, Cracow was Poland's capital city and the cradle of the nation's printing business. The inventories studied by Benis were typically made for the purposes of inheritance proceedings and contained lists of books which a print shop owner had printed, but died before he could sell them. And so, in an inventory made in 1555, after the death of Helena Unglerowa,🔊 the widow of Florian Ungler🔊 (d. 1536), who had been the first person to print books entirely in Polish, there was a mention of 100 unbound copies of a book whose rather unpronounceable title (to anyone who isn’t Polish) was Kuchmistrzosthwo🔊 (Cooking Mastery).[5] Wolski connected the dots and concluded that the two damaged sheets printed with vinegar recipës that he found may have come from an otherwise lost cookbook with such a previously unknown title.

But that’s not all. The same year 1891 saw the publication of two further works which shed more light on these two sheets. Firstly, Benis published the second volume of his Inventories, which contained a mention of a single copy of a cookbook owned by Helena Gałczyna🔊 (d. 1549), the widow of another Cracow printer, Maciej Szarffenberg🔊 (d. 1547). Additionally, four copies of the same book were listed in the inventory of a Szymon Tyrlikowski’s book collection. The title indicated in both inventories, however, was written as Kucharstvo or Kucharsthvo🔊 (Cookery).[6]

Title page of Kuchařství, the oldest cookbook printed in Czech, first published in 1535

Secondly, Čeněk Zíbrt🔊 (1864–1932), a historian at Charles University in Prague, published a reprint of the earliest cookbook printed in the Czech language, that is, the aforementioned Kuchařství.[7] This allowed Władysław Wisłocki🔊 (1841–1900), custodian of the Jagiellonian University Library, to compare the vinegar recipës discovered by Wolski with recipës found in the Czech book. And he realized that what Wolski found were indeed fragments of the oldest printed Polish-language cookbook, but it hadn't been written originally in that language; it was a Polish translation of the Czech Kuchařství. And, according to Wisłocki, the title was rendered into Polish as Kucharstwo, rather than Kuchmistrzostwo as Wolski had claimed.[8] The question of the book’s title has never been fully resolved either way, but somehow, contrary to Wisłocki’s view, it is now more commonly referred to by the longer title.

All this is well and good, but what kind of discovery is it when all that we have from the oldest Polish cookbook are recipës for vinegar? Yes, vinegar was formerly an extremely important preservative and a popular condiment, produced in many different ways, from wine or beer, and sometimes flavoured with various additives. You could, for example, make it like this:

Take the vessel you wish to use for your vinegar, pour enough old wine to fill half of the vessel, place it in the sunshine and let it stay warm, but better keep it a distance away from fire; this way you will always have good wine vinegar.
[Kuchmistrzostwo], [Cracow]: [Hieronim Wietor], [ok. 1540], f1r, Warsaw Public Library, XVI.O.140, own translation
Weźmij naczynie, jakie chcesz mieć ku [octu], wlej do niego wina starego, coby mog[ło być] pół tego naczynia, postaw je na słońce, [niech] się grzeje, ale lepiej u ognia z daleka [przy]lewaj, zawżdy ktemu będziesz miał o[cet do]bry w[i]nny.
Vezmi nádobu nebo soudek a vlij do něho starého vína, což by mohlo polovice soudku býti, a vstav je na slunce až se zhřeje, ale lépe jest k ohni zdaleka přistaviti, ať se zhřeje, a přilévej k tomu vždy, a budeš míti ocet dobrý v[i]nný na místo.
Kuchařství: O rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají, ed. Čeněk Zíbrt, Praha: F. Šimáček, 1891, p. [LXXV]

Polish text:
Weźmij naczynie, jakie chcesz mieć ku [octu], wlej do niego wina starego, coby mog[ło być] pół tego naczynia, postaw je na słońce, [niech] się grzeje, ale lepiej u ognia z daleka [przy]lewaj, zawżdy ktemu będziesz miał o[cet do]bry w[i]nny.

Czech text:
Vezmi nádobu nebo soudek a vlij do něho starého vína, což by mohlo polovice soudku býti, a vstav je na slunce až se zhřeje, ale lépe jest k ohni zdaleka přistaviti, ať se zhřeje, a přilévej k tomu vždy, a budeš míti ocet dobrý v[i]nný na místo.
Kuchařství: O rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají, ed. Čeněk Zíbrt, Praha: F. Šimáček, 1891, p. [LXXV]

Yet still, one would wish for something more than just that.

Another Groundbreaking Discovery

Another surviving sheet from Kuchmistrzostwo, this one with recipës for meat dishes, currently owned by the Jagiellonian Library in Cracow (ID number: Cim 0.913)

For something more, one had to wait almost forty years, but I believe it was worth it. It was then that Kazimierz Piekarski🔊 (1893–1944), head of the Old Prints Department at the Jagiellonian Library, discovered a badly damaged sheet of paper printed with more recipës from Kuchmistrzostwo (or Kucharstwo, if you wish). He removed the sheet, naturally, from the cover of a different tome, namely the 1549 edition of the Latin-language De Tuenda Valetudine Libri Sex (Six Books on the Preservation of Health) by the aforementioned Galen.

Piekarski examined the typefaces used both on the sheet he had found and on the pages with vinegar recipës discovered by Wolski, and then compared them with the typefaces known to be used by different Cracow printers in the first half of the 16th century. And he came to the conclusion that the two fragments came from two different editions of the same cookbook. The sheet found at the Jagiellonian Library was printed with types used at Maciej Szarffenberg’s print shop, while the two sheets discovered in Warsaw must have been printed with types employed by Hieronim Wietor🔊 (ca. 1480–1547) – rather than by Florian Ungler as Wolski had assumed. But if a hundred unsold copies were found in Mrs. Unlger’s inventory, then Ungler must have also printed his own edition of the same cookbook, although not a single copy of that edition has survived to our times.[9] And this would mean that the first cookbook printed in Polish had at least three different editions from three different printers.

But, perhaps more importantly, on this newly discovered sheet we can finally find recipës not for vinegar, but for decent meat dishes. Even game meat, to boot! In the title of the first recipë we can also see a small, but interesting modification made by the 16th-century Polish translator. The original Czech version speaks of “buffalo, bison or other uncommon game, not found in our lands”, whereas the Polish translation has “buffalo, bison or other game, uncommon in Polish lands” (the buffalo here is the water buffalo, not the American cousin of the European bison). On the one hand, I understand the translator’s urge to localize the text a little, but on the other, it seems to me that he did it somewhat half-heartedly. It’s true that, by the 16th century, bison had already been extinct in Bohemia, or what is now the Czech Republic, but it still roamed the vast forests of Poland, so it wasn’t that exotic to Polish cuisine.

Buffalo, bison or other game, unusual in Polish lands, but only in foreign countries. Make sauce for this [meat] in the following way. Take raisins, figs and make a toast of white bread, put it all in a mortar and let grind, and once it’s well ground, pour in some heated wine and strain it through cloth, and having cut up the meat into morsels, cover them with the sauce in a cauldron or a pot, season with pepper, ginger, saffron, cloves and sweeten a little with sugar or honey, and add some fried apples, raisins large and small, almonds and anything else, according to [what you have in] your household.
[Kuchmistrzostwo], [Kraków]: [Maciej Szarffenberg], [ok. 1540], f1v, Jagiellonian Library, Old Prints Department, Cim 0.913, own translation
[Zwierzyna bawołowa albo żubrow]a i insze, nie będące w obyczaju polskiej [ziemi, j]edno w cudzych stronach. Tak na nie juchę wyborną działaj. Weźmij rodzynków, fig, a ususz grzankę z białego chleba, włóż wszystko społem do moździerza, a daj tłuc, a gdy już utłuczesz, jako ma być, zagrzawszy wina, wlej w to i przecedź przez chustę, a nadziaławszy sztuk z tej zwierzyny, wlej na nie tę juchę, włóż do kotła albo do garnca, a okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, szafranem, goździk[am]i, a osłodź mało cukrem albo miodem, a usmaż na nie jabłek, rodzynków małych i wielkich, migdałów albo jako kto chce mieć według swego gospodarstwa.
Zvĕřina buvolová aneb zubrová, aneb jiné neobyčejná jakákoli zvĕř z cizích krajin. Takto se má na ně jícha výborná dělati. Vezmi fíkuov a řeckého vína, a usuše topenek z bílého chleba, daj to spolu do moždíře, ať se stluče, a když se na místo stluče, shřeje vína, vlí do toho, a protáhni skrze hartúch, a nadělaje kusuo z těch zvĕřin, daj na ně tu jíchu do kotla, neb do hrnce, a okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, šafránem, hřebičky, a oslaď malo cukrem nebo medem, a upretuj na ní jablek, řeckého vína, mandluov, hrozenek, aneb jak kdo chce míti, vedle běhu hospodářského.
Kuchařství: O rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají, ed. Čeněk Zíbrt, Praha: F. Šimáček, 1891, p. [IV]

Polish text:
[Zwierzyna bawołowa albo żubrow]a i insze, nie będące w obyczaju polskiej [ziemi, j]edno w cudzych stronach. Tak na nie juchę wyborną działaj. Weźmij rodzynków, fig, a ususz grzankę z białego chleba, włóż wszystko społem do moździerza, a daj tłuc, a gdy już utłuczesz, jako ma być, zagrzawszy wina, wlej w to i przecedź przez chustę, a nadziaławszy sztuk z tej zwierzyny, wlej na nie tę juchę, włóż do kotła albo do garnca, a okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, szafranem, goździk[am]i, a osłodź mało cukrem albo miodem, a usmaż na nie jabłek, rodzynków małych i wielkich, migdałów albo jako kto chce mieć według swego gospodarstwa.

Czech text:
Zvĕřina buvolová aneb zubrová, aneb jiné neobyčejná jakákoli zvĕř z cizích krajin. Takto se má na ně jícha výborná dělati. Vezmi fíkuov a řeckého vína, a usuše topenek z bílého chleba, daj to spolu do moždíře, ať se stluče, a když se na místo stluče, shřeje vína, vlí do toho, a protáhni skrze hartúch, a nadělaje kusuo z těch zvĕřin, daj na ně tu jíchu do kotla, neb do hrnce, a okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, šafránem, hřebičky, a oslaď malo cukrem nebo medem, a upretuj na ní jablek, řeckého vína, mandluov, hrozenek, aneb jak kdo chce míti, vedle běhu hospodářského.
Kuchařství: O rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají, ed. Čeněk Zíbrt, Praha: F. Šimáček, 1891, p. [IV]

And then, there remains the question of how to date this oldest Polish cookbook. Its first edition couldn’t be published earlier than 1535, which was when Kuchařství came out in Prague. After all, the translation can’t be older that the original. The latest possible date, on the other hand, is 1547, which is when the cookbook was noted in Szarffenberg’s inventory. It was only in the 21st century that it was possible to significantly narrow this 12-year gap, thanks to a catalogue of the library which belonged to Austrian book collector Hieronymus Beck von Leopoldsdorf🔊 (1525–1596). One of the items listed in his catalogue is “Kuchmistrzstwo Prossowol 1536”. It’s unclear what “Prossowol” could mean; it may have referred to some printer who hailed from the village of Proszowice🔊 near Cracow. In any case, if that printer had published an edition of Kuchmistrzostwo as early as 1536, then it would mean that the Polish translation came out only a year after the Czech original.[10]

An Even More Groundbreaking Discovery

Some historians had their doubts, though. If the cookbook was so popular that it had three or even four editions published within fifteen years, then how come not a single more or less complete copy has survived to our times? Why is it that the only proofs for the book’s existence in the past are just three frayed sheets and a few mentions in inventories, which don’t even agree about its title? Even worse, the two sheets with vinegar recipës got somehow misplaced, so for a time, all that historians had at their disposal was a facsimilë which Wolski had had made and whose authenticity could be questioned.

You could explain these doubts away by saying that the more popular a book is, the more likely it is to be worn down to nothing. It’s even more true for a cookery book, which was particularly vulnerable due to its utilitarian character. As for the question of its exact title, one can imagine a scenario in which different printers published the same book under different titles, which wasn’t that rare a case at all. Be it as it may, some question marks remained.

A folio of the manuscript Zbiór dla kuchmistrza (A Collection for the Master Chef). The heading O zwierzynie (Of Game Dishes) opens the block of recipës copied from Kuchmistrzostwo.

The discovery which practically removed all the remaining doubts about the actual existence of Kuchmistrzostwo and its contents was made about ten years ago by Dr Svitlana Bulatova🔊 at the Manuscript Institute of the National Library of Ukraine in Kyiv.[11] But hold on, you may say, why the Manuscript Institute? We’re talking about a printed book, aren’t we? Well, yes, but keep in mind what we said about culinary recipës being constantly copied and rewritten. Back when nobody kept a smartphone equipped with a camera and an OCR function in the pocket – back when even photocopiers didn’t exist – people commonly copied recipës they found in printed sources by hand. Sometimes they would even create entire manuscript cookbooks that were compilations of recipës taken from diverse sources, both printed and handwritten. It was one such manuscript, entitled Zbiór dla kuchmistrza, tak potraw jako ciast robienia🔊 (A Collection for the Master Chef, of Recipës for Dishes, as Well as for Cakes) that caught Dr. Bulatova’s attention and led her to get in touch with the foremost specialist on the history of Polish cuisine, Prof. Jarosław Dumanowski🔊 at Copernicus University in Toruń.

The manuscript contains a total of about a thousand recipës, as well as medical, veterinary and gardening tips – all written by the same hand. The sources these recipës and tips were gleaned from are not always indicated in the text, but you can see from the different styles and grammars that they must have originated in various historical periods – mostly within the 16th and 17th centuries. And yet, the copyist who made the manuscript clearly indicated on the title page that he finished his work on 25 July 1757 (such dating is further borne out by water marks found on the paper). Which means that by the time the manuscript was created, the recipës which were copied into it had already been quite old. The copyist himself didn’t sign his work, but the book’s first owner left her signatures on three different pages. It was Rozalia Pociejowa née Zahorowska🔊 (ca. 1690–1762), a prominent noblewoman from the region of Volynia in what is now western Ukraine. What led her to commission such a compilation of recipës from previous centuries? Did she wish to study culinary history? Or maybe these old recipës still seemed relevant to her own times and she saw the collection in purely practical terms? We don’t really know.

What we do know is where a block of 224 recipës which stand out from the rest as being written in a particularly archaic language come from. They are all old Polish translations of recipës from the Czech Kuchařství. It’s clear from the style and the grammar of these recipës that they were all written in early-16th-century Polish, which means that the translation couldn’t have been made at the same time as the manuscript was written. The copyist must have used an existing 200-year-old translation, which was either still preserved in its printed form at the time or had already been copied by hand from a printed book before.

There are other clues, too, which confirm that the author of the manuscript had access to the same printed cookbook of which only the three sheets survive today. One is that the manuscript contains the modified title of one of the recipës that we already saw on the sheet found at the Jagiellonian Library: “buffalo, bison or other game which is uncommon in Polish lands, but only in foreign countries”. Another is a word incorrectly written with the letter T where one would expect the letter K. It looks like the 18th-century copyist had trouble reading 16th-century typeface, in which the K’s and the T’s do indeed look quite similar. See for yourselves: can your make out the word written in the picture below?[12] So if the copyist misspelled a word because he'd misread a printed letter, then he must have been copying a printed text – and this means that the printed text must have existed in the first place!

What does it say? Can you make out the letters? Hint: it means “of a cauldron” in Polish.

To sum up: not a single printed copy of the first cookbook printed in the Polish language has survived, but thanks to old print shop inventories, three surviving sheets and one complete manuscript copy, we do know that it existed. We also know that it was first published around 1536 in Cracow, that its title was either Kuchmistrzostwo (Cooking Mastery) or Kucharstwo (Cookery) and that it was a translation of the Czech Kuchařství, which had been published a year earlier and which was itself a translation of the German Küchenmeisterei.

And this, in turn, means that Compendium Ferculorum is not the earliest cookbook to be printed in the Polish language. But it’s still correct to say that it’s the oldest surviving printed Polish cookbook. And it’s also the first printed cookbook that was written originally in Polish rather than translated.

Let’s Cook!

Okay, so what interesting recipës can you find in that oldest Polish cookbook? The recipës are divided into three chapters, or actually even four, except that the fourth chapter isn’t visibly separated from the third.

The first chapter contains recipës for meat dishes. Many of these are for chicken and other birds (e.g., “birds seasoned with onions and encased in dough”), but there are also several recipës for beef (“roasted beef in the Hungarian style”), pork, hare (“hare with or without onions”), as well as various kinds of game, including: partridges, roe deer and red deer venison, wild boar, “buffalo or bison”, and even… squirrels. This is how you can cook the latter:

Skin them and wash them clean inside, and cook them in meat broth, not too salty, and once they are cooked, make yellow or black sauce for them. To make the yellow sauce: roast squirrel livers and make two or three rye-bread toasts, grind them all up in a mortar, dissolve in meat broth and strain. Place the squirrels in the sauce and season with pepper, ginger, mace, then fry up some apples as you would for any other game, serve in a bowl and remember to salt.

And to make the black sauce: take prunes or fried sweet cherries, make toasts of white bread, place them all in a mixture of vinegar and water, and bring to boil, then strain clean through cloth, add the squirrels, bring to boil, season with pepper, ginger, cloves, and sprinkle some saffron on top.

Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako i ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca, ed. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa, Warszawa: Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w Wilanowie, 2021, p. 141, own translation
Obłup je, a wewnątrz je wymyj czyście, a zestaw je w mięsnej polewce nie bardzo słonej, a gdy uwreją, uczyń na nie żółtą juchę albo czarną. Żółtą tak: przypiecz wątrobę wiewiórczą, a ususz grzanek dwie albo trzy z chleba rżanego, utłucz to w moździerzu, a rozpuść polewką mięsną i przecedź czyście. Daj [w] tę juchę wiewiórki, a ukorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, muszkatowym kwiatem, a usmaż na nie jabłek jako na inną zwierzynę, daj na misę, a pamiętaj przysolić.

Czarną zaś tak: weźmij śliwek albo trześni smażonych, ususz grzanek z białego chleba, zmieszaj octu z wodą, a daj śliwki z grzankami tam, aby wewrzały, a przecedź czyście przez chustę, daj do wiewiórek, aby wrzały, okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, goździkami, a trochę szafranu daj na wierzch.

Veveříce takto mají strojeny býti: vytáhna je, vykuchej a vymej čistě a zastav je v hovězí jíše, nevelmi slané, a když uvrou, udělaj na ně žlutú jíchu, aneb chceš-li, černú jíchu. Žlutú jíchu takto máš dělati: odpec jatřičky, usuš topenku neb dvě z chleba, tluč to v moždíři a rozpusť jíchu hovězí a protáhni čistě a daj do té jíchy veveříce, okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, muškátovým květem, a usmaž na ně jablek, jako na jinú zvěřinu a daj na misu a pomni přisolovati.

Černú jíchu takto na ně dělají: vezmi švestek, neb třešeň vařených, usuš topenku z režného chleba neb směs dvě s vodu s octem, dajž ty švestky s topenkami tam, ať rozevru a protáhni čistě skrze hartuch, dajž do ní veveříce, ať sevřou, okořeň pepřem, hřebičky a zázvorem a trošku šafránem a daj svrchu smažená jablka.

Kuchařství: O rozličných krměch, Staré Město pražské: Pavel Severín, 1535; quoted in: Čeněk Zíbrt: Staročeské umění kuchařské, Praha: Stará garda mistrů kuchařů, 1927, p. 211

Original text:
Obłup je, a wewnątrz je wymyj czyście, a zestaw je w mięsnej polewce nie bardzo słonej, a gdy uwreją, uczyń na nie żółtą juchę albo czarną. Żółtą tak: przypiecz wątrobę wiewiórczą, a ususz grzanek dwie albo trzy z chleba rżanego, utłucz to w moździerzu, a rozpuść polewką mięsną i przecedź czyście. Daj [w] tę juchę wiewiórki, a ukorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, muszkatowym kwiatem, a usmaż na nie jabłek jako na inną zwierzynę, daj na misę, a pamiętaj przysolić.

Czarną zaś tak: weźmij śliwek albo trześni smażonych, ususz grzanek z białego chleba, zmieszaj octu z wodą, a daj śliwki z grzankami tam, aby wewrzały, a przecedź czyście przez chustę, daj do wiewiórek, aby wrzały, okorzeń pieprzem, imbirem, goździkami, a trochę szafranu daj na wierzch.


Czech text:
Veveříce takto mají strojeny býti: vytáhna je, vykuchej a vymej čistě a zastav je v hovězí jíše, nevelmi slané, a když uvrou, udělaj na ně žlutú jíchu, aneb chceš-li, černú jíchu. Žlutú jíchu takto máš dělati: odpec jatřičky, usuš topenku neb dvě z chleba, tluč to v moždíři a rozpusť jíchu hovězí a protáhni čistě a daj do té jíchy veveříce, okořeň pepřem, zázvorem, muškátovým květem, a usmaž na ně jablek, jako na jinú zvěřinu a daj na misu a pomni přisolovati.

Černú jíchu takto na ně dělají: vezmi švestek, neb třešeň vařených, usuš topenku z režného chleba neb směs dvě s vodu s octem, dajž ty švestky s topenkami tam, ať rozevru a protáhni čistě skrze hartuch, dajž do ní veveříce, ať sevřou, okořeň pepřem, hřebičky a zázvorem a trošku šafránem a daj svrchu smažená jablka.

Kuchařství: O rozličných krměch, Staré Město pražské: Pavel Severín, 1535; quoted in: Čeněk Zíbrt: Staročeské umění kuchařské, Praha: Stará garda mistrů kuchařů, 1927, p. 211


Preparation of squirrels in yellow and black sauces (in Czech)
Preparation of squirrels in yellow and black sauces (in Czech)


Both recipës for squirrels – in their Czech-language version – were tried out by a group of Czechs: food writer Roman Vaněk🔊 and chef Pavel Mencl,🔊 with the help of historian Martin Franc,🔊 in an episode of the Czech-language TV show Zmlsané dějiny🔊 (Hungry for History). Obtaining the principal raw material proved to be difficult as red squirrels, which are native to Europe, are protected by law. They ended up importing some grey squirrels from Britain, where they are trapped and killed as an invasive species. The culinary reënactors were quite satisfied with the end result, except that the colours weren’t as bright as they had expected: rather than yellow and black, the sauces came out in different shades of brown. But this only shows that colours were perceived differently by people back when no artificial food colouring was available.

Oh, but we wanted a recipë for beginners, so let’s keep on looking.

The next chapter is devoted to fish dishes, that is, something to eat during Catholic fasting days, such as Friday. Here you will find many recipës for carp, pike, stockfish (dried cod), as well as salmon, eel, weatherfish, lampreys and crayfish. A large portion of the chapter covers various kinds of aspic dishes. One particularly elaborate recipë is for carp in kisielica,🔊 or a kind of jelly made from fermented rye flour and divided into four parts, each in a different colour: black (with blood), brown (with cinnamon), green (with parsley) or white (with cream).

The recipës for buffalo or bison (with beef substituted for the game), as well as for various kinds of kisielica, were tried out by Maciej Nowicki, chef at the Wilanów Royal Palace in Warsaw, aided by Prof. Dumanowski, in the fourth episode of the Polish-language TV show Historia kuchni polskiej🔊 (History of Polish Cuisine), which was all about the oldest Polish cookbook. But these recipës, too, are definitely for more advanced cooks.

The third chapter has recipës for “Saturday food”, which means food allowed by the Catholic Church on the milder fasting days, such as Saturday. The milder version of fasting still excluded the meat of land-dwelling animals, but allowed the consumption of dairy and eggs. This chapter abounds in recipës for various kinds of dumplings, porridges and yolk-thickened soups. At the very end, in an implicit fourth chapter, we can find the vinegar recipës, some of which we already know from the two surviving sheets. But let’s stick to the porridges. The Polish word for “porridge”, “kasza”,🔊 had a broader meaning in the past than it has today and referred not only to boiled cereal grains, but to any kind of food with porridge-like consistency. For example, you could chop some apples into small chunks, fry them up and then pass through a sieve to obtain what was referred to as “apple porridge”.

One recipë that caught my attention is for “rice porridge”.

To make rice porridge: take as much rice as you want and some clean cream, cook it first and then rinse the rice, and place it in the cream, add some butter and mix, so it doesn’t burn and you have clean porridge, and then, when you serve it in a bowl, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.
Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako i ciast robienia wypisany roku 1757 dnia 24 lipca, ed. Jarosław Dumanowski, Switłana Bułatowa, Warszawa: Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w Wilanowie, 2021, p. 168, own translation
Kaszę z ryżu tak działaj: Weźmij ryżu, coć się widzi, a czystej śmietany, uwarz ją pierwej, a potym ten ryż wypłucz, a kładź do tej śmietany, a omaścisz masłem i mieszaj, aby się nie zewrzało, tedy będzie czysta [tj. nieprzypalona] kasza, a potem, gdy dasz na misę, posyp cynamonem i cukrem.
Kaše z rajže velmi dobrá: Vezmi rajže, coť se zdá, a čisté smetany a svař tu smetanu prvé, potom tu rajži vypeř, a vlož do té smetany, a omasť máslem a míšej, ať se nesevře, a čistá bude kaše. A potom, když dáváš na mísu, pospi skořicí, cukrem a jez.
Kuchařství: O rozličných krměch, Staré Město pražské: Pavel Severín, 1535; quoted in: Čeněk Zíbrt: Staročeské umění kuchařské, Praha: Stará garda mistrů kuchařů, 1927, p. 231

Polish text:
Kaszę z ryżu tak działaj: Weźmij ryżu, coć się widzi, a czystej śmietany, uwarz ją pierwej, a potym ten ryż wypłucz, a kładź do tej śmietany, a omaścisz masłem i mieszaj, aby się nie zewrzało, tedy będzie czysta [tj. nieprzypalona] kasza, a potem, gdy dasz na misę, posyp cynamonem i cukrem.

Czech text:
Kaše z rajže velmi dobrá: Vezmi rajže, coť se zdá, a čisté smetany a svař tu smetanu prvé, potom tu rajži vypeř, a vlož do té smetany, a omasť máslem a míšej, ať se nesevře, a čistá bude kaše. A potom, když dáváš na mísu, pospi skořicí, cukrem a jez.
Kuchařství: O rozličných krměch, Staré Město pražské: Pavel Severín, 1535; quoted in: Čeněk Zíbrt: Staročeské umění kuchařské, Praha: Stará garda mistrů kuchařů, 1927, p. 231

I suppose that to any Polish person this dish would immediately bring back some childhood memories. Rice with cream, sugar and cinnamon was a typical children’s food when I was growing up. The only difference between modern and historical versions is that in our times, you would cook the rice in milk and only then mix it with cream, rather than cook the rice already in the cream. A more important distinction is in the way this dish was and is perceived. In our times, it would be seen as a rather simple dish, tinged perhaps with a bit of nostalgia for some people. But in the 16th century, it would have been the pinnacle of luxury. Rice, sugar and cinnamon were all considered exotic spices that were imported from overseas for a lot of money. Butter and cream were sourced locally, but they were the most expensive of all dairy products. What’s more, in a cuisine where colours played an especially important role, white was prized above all other colours – hence the warning not to burn the rice. All in all, it was definitely a rich man’s porridge.

Sprinkle with cinnamon – and it’s ready!

For my reconstruction, I used 30%-fat cream, which I diluted a little with milk. I added cane sugar (beet sugar was unknown in the 16th century) already while cooking, to let it dissolve well in the cream. At the end, I only had to sprinkle the porridge with powdered cinnamon – and that’s it! I did like the flavour – it tasted just the way I expected rice with cream, sugar and cinnamon to taste.

If you can read Polish and would like to try out some other recipës form the oldest cookbook in that language, then I’ve got some good news: the entire manuscript, edited by Bulatova and Dumanowski, was published in 2011 by Wilanów Palace Museum in Warsaw. This way, almost half a millennium after the first publication of Kuchmistrzostwo, its recipës were published in print once again.

Timeline of Early Printed Cookbooks

And to summarize what I wrote above, here’s a little table to show you the sequence in which the first cookbooks printed in given languages were originally published (up to the middle of the 16th century) – in relation to selected events from universal history.

First cookbooks printed in given languages Decade Selected events in Europe, for guidance
1451–1460

Johannes Gutenberg

• 1453, Contantinople (Istanbul) – Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed II capture the capital city of the eastern Roman Empire
• 1455, Mayence (Mainz) – Johannes Gutenberg () prints the first book (a Bible) using a movable-type printing press.

• Bartolomeo Platina (), De honesta voluptate et valetudine, Rome ca. 1470 – in Latin.

1461–1470

Bartolomeo Sacchi aka Platina

• 1461, France – François Villon writes his testament in verse.
• 1466, Thorn (Toruń) – King Casimir Jagiellon of Poland and Ludwig von Erlichshausen, Grand Master of the Teutonic Order of Knights, sign a peace treaty ending the Thirteen-Year War and restoring Poland’s access to the Baltic Sea.

1471–1480

Hans Memling, Last Judgement, middle panel

• 1473, North Sea – amidst the Anglo-Hanseatic War, privateers from Danzig (Gdańsk) loot the Last Judgement triptych () by Hans Memling (now still in Gdańsk).
• 1473, Cracow (Kraków) – Kasper Straube prints an astrological wall calendar for the year 1474, the first text known to be printed in Poland.

• Peter Wagner, Küchenmeisterei, Nuremberg 1485 – in German.
Le Viandier, Paris 1486 – in French.
• Bartolomeo Platina, De la honesta voluptate e valetudine, Venice 1487 – in Italian (translated from Latin).

1481–1490

Leonardo da Vinci, Dama z gronostajem

• 1489, Cracow – Veit Stoß finishes his work on St. Mary’s altarpiece, a masterpiece of Gothic sculpture (still in Cracow).
• 1489, Milan – Leonardo da Vinci paints Lady with an Ermine (), a masterpiece of Renaissance painting (now in Cracow).

• Richard Pynson, The Boke of Cokery, London 1500 – in English.

1491–1500

Cristoffa Colombo

• 1492 – Cristoffa Colombo () sails under a Spanish flag in search of a western route to India, ending up in the Caribbean.

1501–1510

Alexander Jagiellon

• 1505, Radom – King Alexander Jagiellon of Poland () signs the Nihil Novi act, establishing parliamentary monarchy in his kingdom.

• Thomas van der Noot, Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen, Brussels 1514 – in Dutch.
• Robert de Nola, Llibre del coch (), Barcelona 1520 – in Catalan.

1511–1520

Llibre del coch, title page

• 1517, Wittenberg – Martin Luther publishes his 95 theses against the sale of indulgencies, kicking off the Protestant Reformation.
• 1518, Cracow – King Sigismund I Jagiellon of Poland marries the Milanese princess Bona Sforza.

• Robert de Nola, Libro de guisados, Toledo 1525 – in Spanish (translated from Catalan).

1521–1530

Niklas Koppernigk

• 1522, Graudenz (Grudziądz) – Niklas Koppernigk aka Copernicus (), Canon of Ermland, makes a speech about monetary policy at the dietine (regional assembly) of Royal Prussia.
• 1526, Mohács – King Louis Jagiellon of Bohemia, Hungary and Croatia dies in a battle against Ottoman Turks led by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.

• Pavel Severýn, Kuchařství, Prague 1535 – in Czech (translated from German).
Kuchmistrzostwo, Cracow 1536 – in Polish (translated from Czech).

1531–1540

Henry VIII

• 1534, London – King Henry VIII () becomes the head of the Church of England.

References

  1. Gojko Barjamovic et al.: The Ancient Mesopotamian Tablet as Cookbook, in: Lapham’s Quarterly, 11 June 2019
  2. Many people think of memes as nothing but silly pictures shared on the Internet, but they are, in fact, as old as human culture itself. The Internet is only a new medium for memes to spread in, faster than ever before. The notion of memes, as cultural equivalents of genes, was coined by the famous biologist Prof. Richard Dawkins in 1976 (when the Internet was still in its infancy), who wanted to show that you can also study evolution outside of biology (R. Dawkins: Memes: the new replicators, in: The Selfish Gene, Oxford University Press, 1989, p. 189–201). The very idea of a meme would soon become a successful and quickly evolving meme in and of itself.
  3. Galen of Pergamon: Commentary on Hippocrates’ Epidemics, in: Andrew Smith: Attalus
  4. Zygmunt Wolski: Kuchmistrzostwo: Szczątki druku polskiego z początku w. XVI, Biała Radziwiłłowska: self-published, 1891, p. 11–12
  5. Artur Benis: Materyały do historyi drukarstwa i księgarstwa w Polsce, vol. I. Inwentarze księgarń krakowskich Macieja Scharffenberga i Floryana Unglera (1547, 1551), Kraków: Akademia Umiejętności, 1890
  6. Artur Benis: Materyały do historyi drukarstwa i księgarstwa w Polsce, vol. II. Inwentarze bibliotek prywatnych (1546–1553), Kraków: Akademia Umiejętności, 1891
  7. Kuchařství: O rozličných krmích, kterak se s chutí strojiti mají, ed. Čeněk Zíbrt, Praha: F. Šimáček, 1891
  8. Władysław Wisłocki: Przewodnik Bibliograficzny, 14/10, Kraków: self-published, October 1891, p. 166–167
  9. Kazimierz Piekarski: Miscellanea Bibljograficzne: „Kuchmistrzostwo” Macieja Szarffenberga, in: Przegląd Bibljoteczny, IV, Kraków: Wydawnictwo Związku Bibljotekarzy Polskich, 1930, p. 415–418
  10. Magdalena Herman: Ślady pierwszej polskiej książki kucharskiej, in: Silva Rerum, Warszawa: Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w Wilanowie, 3 December 2020
  11. Світланa Олегівнa Булатова: Рукописна книга ХVIII ст. з історії старопольської кухні „Zbiór dla kuchmistrza tak potraw jako ciast robienia” з фондів Інституту рукопису Національної бібліотеки України імені ВІ Вернадського, in: Рукописна та книжкова спадщина України, 20, 2016, p. 22–42
  12. The correct answer is: “kotła”.🔊

Bibliografia


◀️ Previous 📜 List of posts Next ▶️
⏮️ First 🎲 Random post Latest ⏭️